The Second-Largest City On Croatia's Coast Is A Breathtaking Beauty Full Of Historic Charm

The monster success of "Games of Thrones" and its spinoffs clued the world in on what many travelers had celebrated for years — the coast of Croatia. To be fair, Dubrovnik was inundated long before, and the show made it even worse, but outside that, Dalmatia remained relatively off the mass-tourism radar. That's certainly true for its largest city, Split, which only gets a fraction of the attention of Dubrovnik. However, it's arguably more deserving, thanks to the unique foundations it sits on and in — the palace of the Roman Emperor, Diocletian. The modern street plan follows the original walls, rooms, and hallways, putting any visit literally in the footsteps of Diocletian.

The palace covers the eastern half of the Old Town of Split, with the rest reflecting centuries of architecture left behind by one overlord after another. That's left churches, squares, markets, statues, fountains, and parks that delight as much as the palace. Plus, Split sits on the cleanest water for swimming in all of Europe — a major bonus that Croatians take full advantage of in summer when the coast fills with holidaymakers, international and domestic. This human energy also reminds that Split remains a living, breathing city amid its historical ruins.

The Palace of Diocletian was built for the emperor's retirement plan and was so strong and imposing, it became a refuge during the Avar invasion three centuries after his lifetime. Behind the still-standing 72-foot limestone walls and gates, the nucleus of Split was formed. They remain today, earning Split UNESCO status and eliciting gasps from first-time visitors as they approach, particularly at its main entrance, The Golden Gate. Stepping through — after giving a good-luck, toe-rub of the 25-foot statue of Croatian bishop Grgur Ninski just outside — offers visitors an extremely rare, up-close-and-personal view of life for Roman emperors. That half of the OId Town fits inside is amazing enough.

A good place to start the tour is Peristil Square, which served as the central courtyard for the palace. Ancient columns topped with rounded arches above and the original palace floor underfoot, the square brings the Roman Empire to life again. Diocletian's mausoleum, also in the square, became the Cathedral of Saint Domnius, and its 13^th-century bell tower offers expansive views of the palace, city, and coastline. The vestibule that once marked the entrance to the imperial apartments is there. The dome is long gone, but the acoustics remain, making it a favorite place for a cappella performances. You can see more of the palace in the network of cellars underneath that served as the basement — and later, a set in "Game of Thrones."

A lot has happened in Split since Diocletian, making exploration beyond the palace walls part of any complete experience. Start along the water on the Riva Promenade. Home to numerous bars, restaurants, cafes, and clubs, it becomes the heart of Split in the summer. Follow it west to Marjan Park, which serves as the lungs of the city. Trails wind throughout, often rewarding hikers and bikers with panoramic views and ancient churches. There is also the other half of town to see, too, especially the charming Fruit Square, surrounded by Baroque buildings and an octagonal Venetian tower from 1435.

Split is also a great place to feast on the culinary bounty supplied by the Adriatic Sea and centuries of cultural influences. This Mediterranean diet features fish and wine, reflected in a Dalmatian proverb that says fish should be washed in three liquids — the sea, oil, and wine. All are on tap at restaurants like ZOI, Šug, Dvor, and Zrno Soli, or you might grab your own snapper at the Split Fish Market in Old Town. As this is Zinfandel country, stop by Zinfandel Food and Wine Bistro to sample the goods. 

For the remainder of your trip, consider island hopping in Croatia. Take a ferry to either a breathtaking Croatian island without crowds or an underrated Croatian island with lower prices.