Between York And Lancaster Is A Pennsylvania Township Mixing Trails, Rivers, And A Quirky Giant Shoe Stay

Southern Pennsylvania is known around the world as the heart of Pennsylvania Dutch Country. Lancaster County alone is home to an Amish community some 30,000 members strong, making up roughly 7% of the county's population. This has made it one of the most visited rural areas in the United States, drawing tourists eager to enjoy the delicious treats and Amish handcrafts in Shrewsbury or go antiquing and take a scenic train tour in Strasburg. Neighboring York County, just west of Lancaster across the Susquehanna River, is also home to two growing Amish communities and offers visitors a similar blend of scenic landscapes and small-town rural charm.

One York County small town that's worth adding to your Amish country tour is Hallam, the self-proclaimed "biggest small town in Southcentral Pennsylvania." The easiest way to get there is to fly into the state capital of Harrisburg, which is only about 30 miles to the north. The town is also an easy drive from other nearby cities, roughly an hour north of Baltimore and 2 hours from Philadelphia or the famous, artsy college town of State College.

Hallam wasn't officially incorporated until 1908, but the settlement's history goes back much further. It was first settled in the early 1700s and is home to one of York County's oldest still-standing structures, the Martin Schultz House, an early Germanic home built in 1736. Hallam became a hub for the broader Hellam Township (yes, they're really spelled that similarly) by the late 1800s, when its main commercial corridor was established (though the businesses that occupy those buildings have changed over the years). Yet the town has also maintained a close connection to the surrounding landscape, and the natural beauty to be found across Hellam Township is one of the top reasons to pay Hallam a visit.

Hallam is located about 6 miles west of the Susquehanna River, just south of the entrance to Susquehanna Riverlands State Park. Located at the confluence of Codorus Creek and the Susquehanna, the park covers more than 1,000 acres, including about 2.5 miles of waterfront vistas. Schull's Rock Overlook is regarded as the best spot to watch the Susquehanna River or get in-air views of ospreys and bald eagles. It can be reached via the 1.4-mile Overlook Trail, which is suitable for hikers of all skill levels. For those seeking a more strenuous hike, a 2.75-mile portion of the Mason-Dixon Trail also passes through the park. Susquehanna Riverlands State Park is close to the middle of the 199-mile trail, which connects the Appalachian Trail at its western terminus to the Brandywine Trail at Chadds Ford to the east.

Hellam Township expanded the natural landscapes visitors can explore in 2023, when Wizard Ranch Nature Preserve was opened to the public. This 247-acre preserve is part of the Hellam Hills Conservation Area, the largest contiguous forest in the region. It has two loop trails as of this writing, with more planned for the future. The shorter Orange Trail connects to the larger White Trail, and both pass through a mix of forests and recently restored meadows and wetlands.

Just across the Susquehanna from Wizard Ranch is another extensive hiking option: the Northwest Lancaster County River Trail, which runs for 13.5 miles across five municipalities. The portion closest to Hallam connects to the Chickies Rock Overlook Trail, another favorite place to enjoy panoramic views of the Susquehanna that is also said to be the stomping ground of a local legend, a small bigfoot-like hairy hominid known as the Albatwitch.

There was once an old lady who lived in a shoe — and she might have been in Hallam. The Haines Shoe House was built in 1948 by "Shoe Wizard" Mahlon N. Haines, the same local entrepreneur who once owned the land now conserved as the Wizard Ranch Nature Preserve. The 1,500-square-foot boot-shaped home was built as a promotional stunt and has since been used as a vacation spot, a museum, and an ice cream shop. Today, it's operated as an Airbnb and holds the distinction of being the most unique place to stay in Hallam.

If you're looking for more traditional lodging, you'll find a plethora of options around North York, about 8 miles west down U.S. Highway 30, a vibrant commercial hub that's anchored by the Hollywood Casino. For those who prefer local flavor to the typical chains, the Emig Mansion is a charming, historic bed and breakfast. Built in the mid-1800s, it served as a headquarters for Confederate forces during the Civil War, a history that's earned it a place on the Pennsylvania Civil War Trails.

Hallam's walkable downtown along Route 462 is where you'll find most of the town's restaurants. Hallamshire Family Restaurant is a local favorite, serving up hefty portions of affordable homestyle comfort food. For a more upscale dining experience, you can enjoy an elegant high tea at The Front Porch Tea Room & Gathering Place down the street. Check their website for the monthly menu, whose courses typically include homemade soups, sandwiches, and freshly made scones with cream.