Florida's 'Pink Palace' Is A Beachfront, Bubblegum Resort With Gulf Coast Access And Endless Amenities
Long Key is one of a slender string of barrier islands fringing Florida's Gulf Coast that stretches all the way up to Clearwater. It was here in the 1920s that architect Thomas Rowe built a palace for his forbidden love interest, the lead actress then playing in the opera "Maritana," whose lead male character is named Don César de Bazan. As the story goes, her family forbade the marriage, so, heartbroken, Rowe moved to Florida and built the Don CeSar hotel and resort in her honor. The hotel opened in 1928 and reportedly came in 300% over budget, but it attracted a sophisticated set during its roaring heyday, hosting famous guests like F. Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald, Lou Gehrig, Al Capone, and even Franklin D. Roosevelt. During World War II, it was converted to a military hospital and VA regional office. It later underwent a multi-million-dollar restoration in the 1970s and again in 2018. In 2024, the region was hit my hurricanes, and after significant damage, Don CeSar closed for several months, then reopened in 2025.
Located just south of St. Pete Beach with its award-winning white sand and vibrant downtown, if you cross over from the mainland via the Pinellas Bayway, you can't miss it: The colossal Mediterranean Revival-meets-Art Deco palazzo sits between Gulf Boulevard and the sea, painted in pastel bubblegum pink with lace-white trim, perched on the white sands of St. Pete Beach for nearly a century. Today, the Don CeSar — known as "the Pink Palace" or "the Pink Lady" — is a resort offering full waterfront access and white-sand beach, gorgeous restaurants, heated pools, ornate fountains, and even, some say, the lonely ghost of its visionary, Thomas Rowe.
Take advantage of the expansive spa, heated pools, and beach access
Today, freshly remodeled, the Don CeSar welcomes guests to enjoy a full slate of upscale amenities across its 80 acres of waterfront property — a rare luxury along this laid-back stretch of coastline. Much of the surrounding Gulf Coast remains underdeveloped, dotted with small, charming beach towns like Redington Beach, a quiet retirement haven with wide, white sands, several miles north of St. Pete Beach, and just south, tranquil Pass-a-Grille Beach, an uncrowded escape from the Sunshine State's busier coastal spots.
The resort's 277 rooms and suites include two penthouses, several private terraces, and 36 spacious beach suites about a half-mile up the beach, which offer extra room for groups, kitchenettes, and privacy. Many of the rooms face water — either west over the Gulf, or east across Gulf Boulevard to Boca Ciega Bay. Spa Oceana, one of Don CeSar's prestige amenities, features 16 treatment rooms, a rooftop terrace, aroma-infused steam rooms, and whirlpool baths in its 11,000-square-foot facility overlooking scenic views. Guests can choose from globally-inspired relaxation packages to classic hair and nail care. Other highlights include a 4,000-square-foot gym and optional fitness classes, two heated pools with a pool concierge and bar, and direct access to the white sugar-sand beach, where loungers, cabanas, kayaks, and other water toys are available to rent.
"This is a pink sandcastle!" wrote one Tripadvisor reviewer, adding, "Gorgeous art deco decor, great location, highly recommend. The beach and the pool were amazing." Another reviewer noted, "Swim out in the water a bit and turn around....WOW, what a sight. Beach was interesting with many different sea shells and sand dollars."
Wine and dine yourself at the Don CeSar
The Don CeSar features two on-site restaurants, bars, and several boutique shops — most open to the public — so even if you're not spending the night, you can stop in for subtle Art Deco elegance. Maritana, the resort's fine-dining restaurant (and one of the few in the area with a dress code), is named in homage to the romantic opera whose heroine captured Thomas Rowe's heart. Furnished with plush velvet upholstery, gold lampshades, and teak accents — all nodding to the glitz of "Gatsby" while maintaining a modern tone. Maritana is open for dinner only and serves contemporary classics such as Oscietra caviar, oysters on the half-shell, dry-aged steak, roasted duck, and Maine lobster.
Society Table offers a more casual experience, serving three meals a day with well-rounded breakfasts, light lunches, and diverse dinners ranging from dynamite shrimp and fish tacos to steaks and burgers. Meanwhile, there are plenty of places to grab drinks throughout the property. The Lobby Bar, the Beacon Pool Bar, and The Rowe Bar — a sports and shuffleboard bar — are all great watering holes serving small bites where you can refuel and relax. For something sweet, Uncle Andy's Market is a hit with all ages, with a candy wall, dog treats (yes, the Don CeSar is pet friendly!), gelato, plus grab-and-go items like snacks and beer you can take back to your room.
Located about 20 miles from the St. Pete-Clearwater International Airport (PIE) and just under 30 miles from Tampa International Airport (TPA), the Don CeSar is easy to reach. Parking on-site isn't free, but the Suncoast Beach trolley runs along Gulf Boulevard between St. Pete Beach and Clearwater, so if you're flying into town, you can skip the rental car and still explore.