Rick Steves Calls This Ravishingly Beautiful Region Of Southern France 'A Vacation From Your Vacation'
Sweeping between the Provencal cities of Avignon and Aix-en-Provence lies the Luberon region, home to some of France's most spectacular and diverse landscapes. Much of the Luberon's majesty, and its natural flora and fauna, is protected as part of the Luberon Natural Regional Park, which is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. Throughout the region, you'll find towering forested mountains, charming hilltop villages, picturesque rivers, red clay canyons, lavender fields, and rolling valleys dotted with vineyards. A distinct departure from the crowded beach resorts of the French Riviera and the bigger cities of Provence, Rick Steves recommends on his website that the Luberon region is best explored slowly, letting each day unfurl to its own rhythm.
Active travelers can head out on mountain hikes or countryside bike rides through cliff-lined trails in the national park, while shoppers should plan their trips around the legendary market days in towns like Isle-sur-la-Sorgue and Roussillon. Leisure lovers will find elegant hotels and villas tucked into the hillsides of iconic towns like Gordes, and history buffs can explore centuries-old castles and abbeys nearby. And foodies and oenophiles can't miss savoring fresh Provencal cuisine accompanied by local wines. With something for every type of traveler, this region is an under-the-radar region that should be discovered on your next trip to the South of France.
While the Luberon's secluded treasures may seem worlds away, it is also easy to access. The nearest airport is the Marseilles Provence Airport, which is about an hour's drive from towns such as Gordes and Roussillon. You can also take the high-speed train from Paris to Avignon, a journey of less than three hours, and then drive to the region. Per Steves' website, the best time to visit Provence is from May to October when you can enjoy warm, sunny weather and blooming flowers.
What to see and do in the Luberon
On his website detailing the hill towns of Luberon, Rick Steves recommends Roussillon, one of France's 'most beautiful villages' that is perched on a hilltop and famed for rich red cliffs, as the best base for exploring the region. Crowning major ochre deposits, the town is distinct for its reddish orange tones. After you've thoroughly explored the colorful town and marveled at the views from its summit, head out to the Luberon Regional Nature Park for an afternoon hike. Since parts of this park resemble parts of the American West with its rugged, reddish landscape, the area is referred to as the "Colorado Provencal." Trails wind through this unique terrain, marked by forested canyons and rocky crags, and change color in the sunlight.
Known as the "Venice of Provence", L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is bisected by the Sorgue River creating a canal-like atmosphere. This postcard-pretty village is beloved for its legendary markets, which are held on Thursdays and Sundays, with hundreds of stalls. Stroll the pedestrian-friendly village, which is lined with art galleries, antiques dealers, and quaint riverfront cafes.
Perhaps the most famous town is Gordes, a medieval town brimming with art, shopping, and gastronomy. The town is crowned by an impressive 11th-century fortressed castle that is now an art center with rotating exhibits. You can also tour underground in the Les Caves du Palais Saint-Firmin, a museum of atmospheric caves and cellars that are centuries old. The village's charming streets are home to a weekly market and chic homewares shops. Just outside of Gordes is 12th-century Senanque Abbey, which is particularly beautiful in summer when the lavender fields in front of the abbey bloom purple and fill the air with their fragrant scent.
Where to stay and eat in the Luberon
Luberon's most luxurious stay is Airelles, an intimate retreat carved in the terraced hillside of Gordes. The 40 rooms and suites are elegantly decorated in the Provencal style and boast dreamy vistas of the surrounding landscape. Guests can easily stroll into town or lie by the beautiful outdoor swimming pool, lined by cypresses. More relaxation continues at the soothing Guerlain Spa. While the quiet atmosphere appeals to couples, the hotel also caters to families with a dedicated kids pool and kids club with a slate of activities. Foodies can't miss a meal at the hotel's fine dining restaurant, Clover Gordes, helmed by Michelin-starred chef Jean-Francois Piège. If you recognize the restaurant, that's because it's one of the best 'Emily in Paris' filming locations you can visit across Europe.
For a stylishly elevated countryside experience, book a room at La Bastide de Marie, about a 20-minute drive south of Roussillon. Ensconced on an over 60-acre vineyard, this limestone retreat is where Provencal farmhouse dreams come to life. Couples can book one of the rooms or suites, while larger groups and families should reserve one of the five- or six-bedroom villas. The sophisticated Provencal cuisine served on the alfresco terraces is sourced from the estate's farm, vegetable and herb gardens, olive groves and orchards, and served with wine from the on-site vineyards. Beautiful outdoor swimming pools set amidst lush greenery and a pampering spa also round out the experience. "The scenery is like something out of a dream," raved a Tripadvisor reviewer. "It's perfectly located for exploring the numerous nearby villages and markets, but so delightful to return to for their amazing dinners."