North Carolina's Once-Bustling Island Village Is Now A Ghost Town With A Pristine Beach And Coastal Beauty
North Carolina might be known for mountainous places, like the resort town with the state's only natural hot springs in the Blue Ridge Mountains, but it also has its share of coastal paradises and beautiful islands. One island in particular manages to blend pristine beachy vibes with a historic ghost town. Located off the coast of North Carolina and relatively difficult to get to, the trip to Portsmouth Island is well worth it if you want the chance to see this deserted village and how it looked before it was abandoned in the 1970s.
Portsmouth used to be a bustling island. Though it was never large, it was lively, especially as the shipping industry thrived, but when the Civil War started, Portsmouth began to fade away. By 1956, only 17 residents remained on the island, and in 1971, the final two finally agreed to move onto the mainland, leaving a ghost town in their wake.
However, instead of the island being purchased by a developer and all that history fading away, 250 acres were placed on the National Register of Historic Places, preserving the buildings and land for future generations to visit. Because it's listed, many of the structures that remain have been restored, including the school, post office, church, and even a Coast Guard station. Some of the homes have been left untouched as well, and — despite the gradual decline of the island town as a whole — many look as if the residents have simply stepped out for a few hours instead of packing up and leaving permanently decades ago.
Visiting Portsmouth Island
Though Portsmouth is no longer a bustling village, visitors are still able to explore the island, and you can take some time to collect shells and dip your toes in the sand of its pristine beach. North Carolina is home to a number of different islands, such as Bald Head Island, which is full of pretty beaches and no cars, but Portsmouth Island has something unique going for it. The fact that it's fairly remote, along with being registered as a historic place, has helped to preserve the land, and because it's in the ocean, the only way to get there is via boat. You can take an approved passenger ferry or use a small personal vessel to travel there. If you choose the ferry, you'll board at Ocracoke Island.
The main way to get to Portsmouth Island is through Ocracoke, and to get there, you have to take a boat or fly. Even on the shortest trip, you're looking at over two hours to get from the mainland to Ocracoke. This distance and difficulty in getting to the island can be a pain, but it's what helps to keep the pristine beach and coastal beauty intact. It might not be one of Earth's most remote islands, but it provides a similar feeling when you stand on the shores. It bears mentioning that the island is not very accessible to anyone in a wheelchair or who has trouble walking, as the paths and sandy parts of the beaches are relatively uneven and hard to traverse.
Prepping to visit Portsmouth Island
Before you visit Portsmouth Island, you need to make sure you're fully prepared. Though the island has a visitor center, it mostly serves to explain the history of the area. There is no food or water available, nor any other necessities besides a restroom. Before you board the boat to go to the island, you'll want to make sure you've packed everything you'll need for the day. The specifics of what you bring are up to you, but at a minimum, you'll want plenty of sunscreen, bug repellent, fresh water, and a few snacks. You may want to plan for changes in weather as well, as it's known to change on a dime.
The best time to visit is between April and October. This is when the island has volunteers to answer questions and provide extra information you might not be able to collect on your own. As for where to stay, there aren't any rentals or hotels available; you can visit for a day trip, but that's about it.
Once, when Portsmouth Island was actually part of North Core Banks, you could travel back and forth between them when the tide was right. Unfortunately, if you're looking to visit Portsmouth now, the Banks are no longer feasible as a home base. The inlet between the banks and the island shifted following the 2019 hurricane, and now there is a large gap between them at all levels of tide. Instead, if you want a place to stay, look at Ocracoke Island, your stop before hitting Portsmouth. There, you'll find a few historical hotels and even a few bed and breakfasts to choose from.