This Wildly Underrated Malaysian City Offers Old World Architecture, Quirky Cafes, And Exceptional Eateries

Visitors to Malaysia know that Kuala Lumpur, the country's easy-to-navigate capital, is a melting pot of Southeast Asian cultures, especially when it comes to food. Waking up to breakfast in Malaysia is so unique that UNESCO recognizes it as an intangible cultural heritage of humanity. Here, a common breakfast is coconut and pandan rice with chili paste, known as nasi lemak. Or you can try roti canai, a buttery flatbread that is perfect for dipping into a rich curry. And that's just breakfast! If the variety and flavor of Malaysian cuisine has you hooked, it's worth exploring the country's other food destinations. The island of Penang always ranks as one of the best places in Asia for foodies

But locals in the know also flock to Ipoh, a traditional tin mining town at the foot of the Cameron Highlands (an area of rolling hills famous for its tea plantations). Located about 125 miles north of the capital, Ipoh is an easy two-and-a-half-hour ride by car or train from Kuala Lumpur. It's also a good stopover if traveling by train from Singapore to Bangkok. Or, if you'd simply like to get to this foodie haven as quickly as possible, you can also fly to Ipoh's Sultan Azlan Shah Airport from Singapore.

What to see and eat in Ipoh's Old Town

Ipoh was a small village until the late 1800s when large tin deposits were discovered nearby. When this happened, the town exploded in size, becoming the country's third-largest city. The Ipoh Heritage Trail is a self-guided walking route to explore the city and its heritage. The trail starts at Ipoh's Train Station, a historic Edwardian structure still operating today. Then, it takes visitors past stately colonial buildings, old shophouses, the Mughal-inspired Padang Mosque, and ends at the colorfully named Concubine's Lane.  

Ipoh's Old Town is also a great place to get your first taste of the city's famous white coffee, which is slow-roasted in creamy palm oil for a caramel taste and color and then accentuated by a touch of sweetened condensed milk. Nam Heong Coffee Shop is a classic kopitiam cafe, one of the originators of this style of coffee. Right off the heritage trail, next to the Sultan Idris Shah II Mosque, you'll also find Rahamath, a classic food stall serving nasi kandar — rice (steamed white or lightly-spiced biryani) piled high with a pick-and-mix selection of curries. Nasi kandar curry options typically include chicken simmered in onions with spices, fish or mutton curry, and okra and beansprouts. This restaurant is a local favorite, so expect packed tables at lunchtime.   

Venture out of the Old Town towards the Jubilee Park area and you find Ong Kee and Lou Wong, two stalls dishing out Ipoh's famed crunchy bean sprouts with tender poached chicken. A stone's throw away, locals line up for Aun Kheng Lim's whole salt-baked chicken for take-away only. Got a sweet tooth? A block over, Funny Mountain serves tau foo fah, a silky, sweet soy beancurd dessert.

Secret gardens and cave temples in Ipoh

Outside the city center, Ipoh has several Buddhist temples deep inside mountain caves. Sam Poh Tong, the Cave of Triple Gems, is the largest temple cave in the country. The cavern, which acts as a prayer hall, is sparse and undecorated. But keep going and you'll come to a hidden garden with a stunning pagoda built into the limestone cliff framed by jungle vegetation. Compare that to the impressive Perak Cave Temple, which has a cavern filled with sacred statues and holy artwork. If you're feeling up for it, hike up the staircase for a panoramic view of the city. Be warned: The path to the top has more than 400 steps. If that's too much, you can relax in the serene temple gardens instead. Also in this area, you can check out Tasik Cermin, or Mirror Lake, which is a flooded quarry turned into a nature park. Enter the park through a former mining tunnel, and you'll emerge into a natural amphitheater of limestone karsts. 

If you plan to reach Ipoh by train, the Sarang Paloh Hotel is a restored heritage building in the Old Town close to the station. If you want to splurge on a resort getaway, the Banjaran Hotsprings Retreat is located in the hills about a 20-minute drive from Ipoh's Old Town. It has thermal water pools with jungle views and steamy caverns to soak in after a day of sightseeing. Ipoh is just one of Malaysia's underrated cities. The vibrant cultural hub of Malacca is another foodie destination to explore. Plus, Malaysia has plenty of budget-friendly islands for a vacation that won't break the bank.  

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