'Oregon's Wine Country Capital' Is A City Overflowing With World-Class Vineyards And Gastronomy Near Portland

Just under an hour from Portland, Oregon has an underrated wine region that is like Napa Valley, but without the crowds. While the region, the Willamette Valley, isn't exactly a secret, the city of Carlton, dubbed "Oregon's wine country capital," remains fairly off the radar. The former logging town is tiny, like blink-or-you'll-miss-it tiny, consisting of only three blocks. Yet in those three blocks, it's managed to pleasantly pack in over 20 wine tasting rooms plus vineyards, restaurants, cafes, and boutiques. In essence, it's a foodie's paradise in the heart of the Willamette Valley.

Stretching 60 miles wide and over 150 miles north to south from Portland to south of Eugene, you could easily drive through the whole Willamette Valley in a couple of hours. The region boasts over 700 wineries and is known primarily for producing pinot noir, pinot gris, chardonnay, pinot blanc, and riesling varietals. Carlton, which was settled in the 1840s, has evolved over the years to become the epicenter of the Willamette Valley, and visitors can take a historical walking tour to learn more about its history and how this tiny town came to be such a hub for wine and gastronomy.

Wine tasting in Carlton and beyond

Carlton is a great place to get your bearings in the Willamette Valley and visit the tasting rooms so you can get a good feel for which vineyards you'd like to visit. To plan your day of wine tasting in Carlton, start with Big Table Farm – Atelier. Owned by a winemaker and an artist, this tasting room slash artist's atelier is housed in a former feed store. A creative collaboration, the couple Brian Marcy and Clare Carver (who are also Napa transplants), live on a 70-acre regenerative farm nearby. It's there, where they raise animals, grow produce, and cultivate honey, that Clare draws inspiration for her beautifully hand-drawn labels that adorn the bottles.

In the heart of Carlton, visitors can also hit La Biblioteca, Tendril Wines, Ken Wright Cellars, and Lavinea tasting rooms. Also not to be missed is Flâneur Wines, whose stunning tasting room is located in a restored grain elevator in a 100-year-old barn that overlooks the vineyards.

Just north of town, the Carlton Winemakers Studio is a LEED-certified collaborative winemaking facility which also serves as a launchpad for winemakers. Housing over a dozen vintners under one roof, visitors can taste all wines daily, as well as sign up for guided tastings and events, with kids, dogs (on the patio), and outside food all welcome. Vintners include Kristof Farms (owned by award-winning journalists Nick Kristof and his wife Sheryl WuDunn), Ridgecrest (a father-daughter collaboration), and Wahle Vineyards (where the owner-winemaker doubles as an ER doctor). Across the road is Cana's Feast Winery, where there is a sprawling terrace with fire pits. For those in search of biodynamic or more natural wines created using sustainable farming practices, Brick House and Beaux Freres just outside town are excellent options.

Where to eat and drink in Carlton

Before any day of wine tasting, good coffee and pastries are in order. Carlton doesn't disappoint, as it has great options, including Carlton Coffee Company and Carlton Bakery. At Carlton Bakery, a local married couple pours their passion into homemade pastries, sandwiches, and other specialties. Lunch and dinner options in Carlton range from elevated fine dining to casual cuisine. Visitors love Park & Main for wood-fired pizzas, and according to several reviewers on Tripadvisor, they love being able to order at the counter, pick out a bottle of wine, and settle into a cozy table by the fire or outside, if the weather is nice.

Attached to Park & Main is From Another Udder, an old-school candy and ice cream shop that sells three kinds of ice cream: typical old-fashioned ice cream, dairy-free, and even booze-infused ice cream for adults, all locally made. For fine French dining, Napa Valley has French Laundry, but Carlton has Cuvée, which is decidedly more quaint — and affordable (at the time of writing, a three-course prix fixe menu is $50). The town's top-rated restaurant on Tripadvisor, The Horse Radish, has live music on Saturdays and a vibrant Sunday brunch.

How to plan your visit to Oregon's wine country capital

When planning your trip to Carlton, you will likely fly into Portland International Airport (PDX), unless you live within driving distance. Side note (and fun fact): The airport's carpet is so famous it has its own Wikipedia page and a cult following — go figure. Once you've hopped in the car, pick up one of the best cups of coffee in America to keep you company on the hour-long drive to Carlton.

While Carlton is chock-full of options to eat and drink, lodging is a bit more limited. Private home rentals are most prevalent and include charming craftsmans, rustic farmhouses, and cozy B&Bs. An alternative option is to stay at The Allison Inn & Spa, which is just 20 minutes away from Carlton by car. Its restaurant, Jory, even features bread made by Carlton Bakery.

Before you head out of town, make sure to stock up on local souvenirs. In Carlton, Milltown Mercantile is a project by a group of local artists and makers who create the perfect locally made gifts and souvenirs. You can find things like homemade scarves, wooden bowls, terrariums, and clothing. It even shares a space with a tasting room, of course. Perhaps one of the cooler perks of visiting the region (if you fly on Alaska Airlines) is the Oregon Wines Fly Free program, which allows you to check a case of wine for free.

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