This Texas City With A Dazzling River Walk Is Full Of Locally Owned Eateries And Wild West Charm

Yeehaw! The lawless Wild West of John Ford's films has disappeared like a tumbleweed on a windy day, but 'cowboy core' vacation destinations still draw crowds. You can find some traces of it in San Angelo, Texas. Tucked along the dazzling Concho River, this city has retained all the chap-wearing, gun smoke-blowin' charm of an old-fashioned saloon-and-bordello town. Minus, of course, all the gun-slingin', craps shootin', and brawls.

San Angelo's foundations were laid as a frontier outpost in the 1860s. It initially was a lawless appendage to neighboring Fort Concho, with brothels, booze, and betting games. The town eventually became a trading post, with the arrival of railroads and the discovery of oil fields nearby fueling its modernization.

Today, the Texas hub is a well-blended mix of history and modernity, much like its overlooked Texas sibling brimming with western charm, Forth Worth. A walk through its downtown includes locally owned eateries serving up classics with a modern flare. San Angelo's charm lies in its ability to somehow gaze toward a bright future while safely letting visitors taste its lawless past.

Hey, fellas, lookin' for some company? San Angelo's must-see Miss Hattie's Bordello Museum has everything you need. It was once the epicenter of some men's social lives at the turn of the 20th century. It's still open, but visitors get a much different experience now. A mannequin dressed like a historic employee stands at the ready, staring out a bordello window in period clothing. Cowboys, soldiers from Fort Concho, and passersby frequented Miss Hattie's, making it a local institution of ill repute. Today, the museum's tours evoke that lurid history with well-restored rooms and tales of women who roamed the bordello's interior, plying their trade.

Afterward, take a walk along the Concho River. The waterway bisects San Angelo, connecting its wilder outskirts to its historic downtown. The San Angelo River Walk includes free experiences, gorgeous parks, gardens, and outdoorsy fun of all stripes. You can even cast a line for some catfish or carp.

End your stroll in San Angelo's downtown, then grab a bite of some spicy cuisine. The city offers an absurd amount of high-quality Mexican and southwestern American fare with enough kick and protein to make any meat lover happy. Tex-Mex aficionados should stop at Armenta's Café, which whips up feasts recognizable to anyone who's eaten in an abuela's kitchen. Expect rich, time-honored, made-from-scratch food with a bit of kick.

The eponymous San Angelo Regional Airport — Mathis Field is closest to the city, a roughly 10-mile drive away. All flights from here lead to Dallas Fort Worth International Airport, which is about a four-hour, 250-mile drive away.

Accommodations range from budget-friendly inns for about $57 to chain hotels that cost more than twice as much per night. The Antebellum, San Angelo's highly-rated bed and breakfast, can cross the $200-per-night threshold. Find even more cozy lodging in this Texas Hill Country region.

The stars at night may shine big and bright in Texas, but the summer sun outshines and out-heats them all. You're best visiting San Angelo in shoulder season or even winter unless you don't mind the oppressive Texas sun turning you into a walking puddle. Bring your comfiest shoes and breathable clothes. Save some room in your luggage for a pair of cowboy boots and a lasso.