Hidden On The Adriatic Coast Is One Of Croatia's Oldest Seaside Cities With Dazzling Beaches And Historic Charm

You probably haven't heard of Šibenik. And that's not your fault. How this city has managed to stay so low-key is truly one of Croatia's great mysteries. It's a stunning, coastal, affordable gem that's culturally rich, in close proximity to natural wonders and full of top-tier restaurants and cafes — yet it remains under the radar. Šibenik is just as magical as Dubrovnik and the country's second-largest city, the historic Split — if not more so, as it lacks the huge crowds and has managed to retain a very palpable authenticity, as the local population of 34,000 people remains in residence all year.

The unsung star of Croatia's Dalmatian coastline, Šibenik is quite literally dazzling, as the glorious Adriatic sunlight that the region is blessed with reflects off the slabs of marble in the old town. Established in 1066 by local Slavs — unlike its neighbors, Zadar and Split, who were founded by the Romans — Šibenik is packed with imposing architecture. Grand fortresses surround it on both land and sea. The pint-sized port city is hidden from sight, cleverly built by wealthy medieval traders in an alcove behind Ljuljevac islet, naturally protected from marauders and invaders like the Venetians. The winding alleys and sea adjacent promenade, the Riva, are just as picturesque as Split and Dubrovnik, yet somehow this pretty city hasn't been discovered by mass tourism.

Perhaps this is because dear Šibenik lacks an airport and is yet to be added to many cruise liner routes. But with a little extra effort to get there — it's over four hours by bus from capital city Zagreb and an hour by car from Split and Zadar — you can be living it up like a local.

Keeping it local in Dalmatia

Whether it's local vibes or local produce and local flavors you're seeking, Šibenik has got you covered. Visitors can't help but notice the laidback pace in the city, with residents young and old leisurely enjoying a coffee on the Riva with a group of old friends or young families. This is the quintessentially Dalmatian way of doing things, known as "pomalo," which roughly translates as easygoing. So do as the locals do: Pull up a chair and enjoy your morning caffeine at Šibenik's slow pace.

Gastrophiles, ready yourselves. The cuisine is astounding in this small city. Dalmatian chefs embrace what they locally call "mare monte" flavors — as towns and cities between sea and mountains, they have the best of both geographies. Consequently, towns along the North Dalmatian coast are blessed with local produce that's naturally flavored with sea salt and wild sage grown on the hillsides and mountains.

One of the best restaurants in Croatia, the Michelin-starred Pelegrini, is the undisputed star of the show. The brainchild of local chef Rudolf Štefan, this restaurant's exquisite six-course tasting menu is guaranteed to be the finest you've had in your life. Sitting outside Pelegrini, gazing at the Cathedral of St. James, you'd be forgiven for drifting off into "Game of Thrones" memories — scenes from the HBO show were filmed on location here, and the city as well as the magnificent Gothic-meets-Renaissance cathedral feature in a fair few episodes. If your budget doesn't extend to Michelin favorites, head to the fabulous fish restaurants along the Riva. For seafood from the heart and ocean, pull up at Tripadvisor Traveler's Choice Award-winner Bistro More, where wonderful owner Irena is happy to recommend local wine to match your dishes of choice.

Šibenik's natural appeal

Once you've had your fill of history and seafood, get out to the beaches, waterfalls, and parks near Šibenik. The closest beaches to the city are a towel-on-the-cement-and-dive-in affair. Šibenik was historically a port, after all, but the water is clear and refreshing, so dive in at Banj and glance back at the old town over the bay. For sand devotees, head to picturesque Primošten, just a 30-minute bus ride or car journey away from Šibenik. It's another one with unforgettable views — Primošten is a captivating fortified village that you can spend hours wandering through or admiring from the beach.

If you're visiting in the spring or fall, check out two of Croatia's natural wonders, each a manageable drive from the city. Set off early if your heart is set on the gobsmackingly gorgeous Plitvice Lakes National Park, home to 16 lakes and plenty of waterfalls, which Rick Steves says is like the Grand Canyon and Niagara Falls combined. It's a two-hour drive from Šibenik (and an even longer bus ride) but is absolutely worthwhile. If you're car-free or just prefer an easier trip, head to the equally jaw-dropping Krka National Park, a nature reserve that's only 20 minutes away by bus or car. The Instagram-famous Skradinski Buk waterfall cascades aquamarine hues that'll no doubt be the highlight of your trip.

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