Hidden Along Portugal's Silver Coast Is A Walkable City With Mouth-Watering Seafood And Thermal Baths

Beyond Lisbon and Porto, there are many small historic towns worth adding to your Portugal itinerary, but not all of them are known for their royal hot springs. With a name that translates literally to "Queen's Thermal Springs," Caldas da Rainha was founded (according to legend) in the 15th century when Queen Leonor was passing through the region. Curious about a group of people bathing in the area's hot, swampy springs, she was told that the water had healing properties, and, upon trying them herself, she claimed bathing there cured her of her ailments. Inspired, she built the town's thermal hospital in 1485, which is now the oldest in the world.

If you're traveling north from Lisbon, the train ride to Caldas da Rainha only takes an hour, so you can visit on a day trip or stop by on your way further north to the historic city of Coimbra, which Rick Steves calls a "less crowded mini Lisbon." Here's everything you need to know about making the most of your time in Caldas da Rainha, from enjoying the baths and finding your way to the beach to visiting the best places to eat fantastic Portuguese seafood.

Visiting the oldest thermal hospital in the world

The Caldas da Rainha Thermal Hospital, located in the center of the town, offers medically minded treatments for respiratory, rheumatic, and musculoskeletal issues in addition to traditional spa amenities like immersion in the hospital's naturally heated waters, high-pressure showers, and massage. The water has unique characteristics like hypersalinity, a pH of 6.7, and a natural temperature of 95 degrees Fahrenheit (35 degrees Celsius). There is no online booking system, so to contact the spa about making an appointment for treatment, you'll have to email termas@mcr.pt.

If you decide to skip the spa, you should visit Museu do Hospital das Caldas to learn more about the history of this 500-year-old institution. The museum features exhibits on antique medicinal equipment and techniques while giving you a peek at the inside of the building. The exterior of the hospital — one of the most lovely sights in town with its uniquely Portuguese Manueline architectural style — is best appreciated from the pavilion of the Parque Dom Carlos I, which is just next door. If you're interested in exploring other antique thermal hospitals in Europe, check out Italy's "City of Breath," Tabiano.

More things to do in Caldas da Rainha

The hospital may be the reason for the town's founding, but it's far from the only thing to do while visiting. Caldas da Rainha is an excellent place to shop for Portuguese ceramics with a visit to the Bordallo Pinheiro Factory, which has been producing beautiful artworks since 1884. In fact, the whole town is a treasure trove of art available at many iconic shops, like Papelaria Vogal for stationery and art supplies or the studio of sculptor Carlos Oliveira, which offers practical workshops for visual artists.

For the best seafood in the area, you can take a trip out to Foz do Arelho, a popular beach only about a 15-minute drive or taxi ride from the town center. There are many breathtaking beaches in Portugal, but this one is off of most tourists' radar. Its golden sands form a peaceful lagoon, with one side facing the ocean and the other facing the sea. Go for the day and find yourself a lovely lunch spot at a top-rated restaurant like Restaurante Europa or Cais da Praia. Order the fried eels to try a local delicacy caught fresh from the lagoon, or keep it simple with clams in olive oil and lemon juice.

Recommended