The Badlands Of Europe Is The Continent's Only Desert With Sandstone Canyon Hikes And Wild West Vibes
"Lawrence of Arabia," "The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly," "Game of Thrones," and "Indiana Jones" — what do they all have in common, besides swashbuckling characters? They all had significant scenes filmed in the Tabernas Desert of Spain. Tabernas gets less than 10 inches of rain annually, qualifying it as a true desert and possibly the only one in continental Europe (though that's debated). Nonetheless, it has been a stand-in for the North Arabian Desert, the Chihuahuan Desert, and the Dothraki hinterlands, earning it the nickname "the Badlands of Europe."
What used to be a vast stretch of forgotten land has seen a revival of interest not just from film studios but also from adventure sports enthusiasts, scientists, researchers, and curious visitors all wanting to know more about Tabernas. The desert is located in Spain's southern province of Andalucía. To visit, fly into Almeria, the closest city, and head north to Tabernas, a straightforward drive of under 30 minutes. Many sites are spread out across the desert, and while you can stop along the roads and highways, taking your car off-road into the desert is strictly prohibited. Alternatively, there is also a 45-minute bus that will drop you at the Tabernas station.
But don't expect Hollywood glamour in this traditional Spanish town. "Tabernas is movie and TV history gold, yet it's somehow hard to pair the sleepy traditional town with its pizzazz-rich claim to fame," writes The Hungry Travelers blog, "It basks in its silver screen glory and star-struck memorabilia while its streets are empty and it's old folk play dominoes and queue at the bakers. It's the very definition of offbeat."
Exploring Europe's only desert in Tabernas
The Tabernas Desert rose to fame as the budget backdrop for so-called Spaghetti Westerns — low-budget Western films, often made by Italian directors in the Spanish desert. Clint Eastwood's squinty glare across the desert is one of the iconic images of Tabernas. Some locations have been turned into attractions for visitors. Fort Bravo and Oasys Mini Hollywood are both film sets converted into theme parks, complete with cowboy shootouts and stunts on horseback. Most of the shows are done in Spanish, though. Oasys also includes a zoo. It's all campy fun that puts visitors in the middle of a film set. "I wish I could play the theme song from 'The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly' right now," said Traveling Robert on his YouTube channel, "because it does look like a scene out of a classic Spaghetti Western."
To truly experience the desert, consider going with experienced guides on horseback or with specially licensed 4x4 vehicles. Malcaminos is a tour operator that offers both out of Tabernas town. It is also possible to go hiking in the desert. Spanish Highs, a tour company with experienced guides, offers guided walks to trek safely through the desert. Bring plenty of water and sun protection. Tabernas is also the site of the annual Badlands Cycle that travels from Granada to Almeria through the desert. The 800-kilometer route changes every year, and, for off-road cyclists, the gravel and sand of Tabernas is a welcome challenge that goes through some picturesque locations. If you like your wheels with engines, Tabernas also has the Andalucía Circuit, the sunniest racetrack in Europe, where you can book a day of racing.
Stargazing and solar energy in Tabernas
Beyond the scenic vistas, the Tabernas Desert is also a surprisingly good place for science buffs. With reservations, visitors can tour Europe's largest solar energy supplier, Platform Solar de Almeria, available in English and Spanish. Tabernas is also home to the Calar Alto Astronomical Observatory, the largest in Europe. It's a working research center, and visitors need to book with Azimuth, an educational tour group, to schedule a night of star gazing through their powerful telescopes.
Most food and hotel options are along the N-340 highway or within Tabernas town. Los Albardinales is a restaurant and museum that showcases locally pressed Oro del Desierto olive oil. At the foot of the medieval Tabernas Castle, the Hostal El Puente is a small family-run hotel with a popular bar and restaurant. Nearby is also the Jardin del Desierto, a cozy bed and breakfast with a small courtyard and pool for cooling off from desert adventures.
Spain is one of the best countries in Europe for a road trip, and Tabernas makes an excellent stopover if you're traveling to or from Granada, a once-in-a-lifetime vacation destination. Driving across the Sierra Nevada mountains through the Tabernas desert to the Andalusian coast gives visitors an appreciation of the diverse landscape. Spain also has the most sparkling clean blue-flag beaches in the world. So, don't forget your bathing suit to end your trip with a swim in the warm waters of the Mediterranean.