Nevada's Friendly Wild West City Boasts Bold Basque Flavors, Cowboy Culture, And Scenic Canyons

You'd be forgiven if when you think of Nevada, Basque restaurants, poetry recitations, and Himalayan snowcocks soaring over an alpine lake are not what come to mind. An antidote to the overstimulation of Las Vegas, Elko is an integral part of the Cowboy Corridor Nevada road trip that also includes the cowboy culture, Basque cuisine, and outdoor thrills of another overlooked city, Winnemucca. How in the world did Basque people from the mountain villages of Spain and France settle in rural Nevada? Many traveled a great distance during the Gold Rush of the 1800s and became sheepherders and ranchers. They've kept their Basque language, music, dances, and sports alive through the generations at events like the National Basque Festival, held every Fourth of July weekend in Elko since 1964. Luckily for everyone, Basque cuisine can be found in Elko year-round at restaurants like the Star Hotel & Bar. Come for a feast of cabbage soup, garlicky lamb chops, salad, and freshly baked bread accompanied by a signature Basque Picon punch apéritif. 

Voted one of the friendliest cities in Nevada, Elko is in the northeastern part of the state, a six-and-a-half hour drive from Las Vegas and eight hours from the underrated, cheap alternative to Las Vegas, Laughlin. At four hours, Elko is closer to Reno and even closer to Salt Lake City, Utah, at three hours away. Elko has a small airport where you can rent a car, and the California Zephyr Amtrak train stops here. 

You know a place is the real deal when it's referred to as one of the last true Western towns in the U.S. Ranches here have been in families for generations, and cowboys aren't just dressing the part — it's a way of life that outsiders can observe at rodeos. Cowboys in this region are known as Great Basin buckaroos, influenced by Spanish and Basque traditions. Elko is considered the cultural heart of the modern American West not only for its many colorful street murals, six-foot-tall cowboy boot sculptures, and the Cowboy Arts & Gear Museum but also for the National Cowboy Poetry Gathering that's been happening every January since 1985. The week-long festival includes storytelling and poetry readings, music and films, and art exhibitions. Workshops like leather carving, quilting, and crafting silver bracelets sell out. 

The festival is organized by The Western Folklife Center, which is open year-round and offers programming like musical performances and art and culture exhibitions in an art gallery and two theaters. You can also sidle up to the bar at the saloon here, order a cold one, and have engaging conversations with other patrons. Thousands of people come to hear unique panel discussions, learn how to deliver poetry performances, and hear top-ranked yodelers. There's also a gift shop selling a range of books, handcrafted Western wear, and other items. But for authentic, coveted hand-tooled boots and ten-gallon hats, go around the corner to J.M. Capriola Co. 

Not only is Elko rich in culture and tradition but it also is a magnet for outdoor adventurers who come to explore the surrounding mountains, lakes, wildlife refuges, and canyons. Called the "Yosemite of Nevada," Lamoille Canyon is the most famous one near Elko. Carved by glaciers, it's filled with dramatic cliffs, alpine lakes, meadows, and waterfalls. Bighorn sheep and mountain goats are at home in this terrain, and birders should keep their eyes peeled for the Himalayan snowcock. The Ruby Mountains make you feel like you're in Switzerland with dramatic peaks and rolling meadows -– and deep powder in winter for skiers and snowmobilers. At 40,048 acres the Ruby Lake National Wildlife Refuge provides stunning habitats for birds like trumpeter swans and canvasback ducks. If you visit Elko's Northeastern Nevada Museum, know that the log structure was once a Pony Express station here in the Ruby Valley. A military fort was also in use here in the 1860s, built to protect the mail route from Paiute attacks. 

There are numerous campgrounds in this area, but for a warm bed in a stylish new hotel, book a room at Shutters. A conveniently located property with light and airy décor and a Craftsman-inspired design, Shutters has a pool, whirlpool, fitness center, and restaurant. If you can't pass up a casino, try your luck at the Maverick Hotel and Casino, which has a steakhouse. Rooms at both hotels begin in the $110 range.