A Dreamy Seaside Getaway In Italy Is A Hidden Cove Of Grottos, Lemon Groves, And Coastal Caves
Have you ever noticed that the crowds don't really leave Amalfi? Even in November, when the summer rush has died down, you'll still see tourists basking in the rugged allure. Of course, there are pros and cons to taking an Amalfi Coast vacation in the off-season, but the fact is, its magic never fades. Once you've lounged on Amalfi's best beaches, strolled through the pastel-colored towns, wandered its well-preserved medieval destinations, and marveled at its sun-soaked beauty, don't pack up just yet. Hidden along the coastline is a quiet escape that's every bit as romantic and dreamlike — dare we say even more so? Conca dei Marini is a coastal haven where lemon groves cling to cliffs, sea caves glitter in azure blue, and time slows to a gentle ripple. Many travelers can say they've been to Amalfi, but not everyone has experienced Conca dei Marini.
Conca dei Marini is small — so small it's one of Italy's tiniest towns. But don't let the size fool you. This place was once a mecca for skilled sailors and sea merchants, which earned it the moniker "City of Mariners." Its name, "Conca," comes from its natural basin form molded into the cliffs. You can still see many of its old stone dwellings, typically with vaulted ceilings and lower-level cellars. The past is very much alive in its architecture, coastline, and rhythm of daily life.
To get to Conca dei Marini, the best thing to do is fly into Naples. From there, take a 1.5-hour train to Sorrento or an hour-long ride to Salerno. You can grab a cab or hop on a bus to reach Conca dei Marini. Those who ended up renting a car can drive directly from Naples and arrive at this town in an hour and a half.
Cave into your wanderlust in Conca dei Marini
The biggest draw in Conca dei Marini is the sea cave, no question. The Grotta dello Smeraldo (Emerald Grotto) is a must-see, and it's spectacular, to say the least. This gleaming sea cave was in hiding until 1932 when a fisherman discovered it, and it's been dazzling visitors ever since. The sun's rays give the cave a surreal emerald radiance, which makes the water glitter with an ethereal shimmer. You'll see the rock walls reflecting light inside, as well as centuries-old stalactites and stalagmites stretching from floor to ceiling. There's even a ceramic nativity scene resting on the cave floor. There are two ways to get to the grotto: by land or boat. If you're driving, park along the coastal highway and take the stairs or elevator down. Otherwise, catch a boat from Amalfi's Pennello pier — time your visit on a sunny day with tranquil waves so that the emerald effect is at its strongest.
For more time on the water, make your way to Marina di Conca, a calm bay ringed by quaint homes overlooking the sea. Boasting crystal-clear waters, this is the perfect place to jump into the water and cool off in the summer heat. Back in the 1960s, it was a hideaway for stars like Sophia Loren and Jackie Kennedy — you can live out your Golden Age of Hollywood fantasies right here.
Capo di Conca Tower, a 16th-century watchtower built to spot pirate ships, is also nearby. It was used as a cemetery until 1949, but now, it's an icon of the coastal town. Located on a lovely path surrounded by Mediterranean flora, the tower offers astonishing vistas of the sea and beyond. Check out the tower's museum too, where you can learn more about its history.
Rest, reflect, and recharge in style
Divided between the hilltop lemon groves and the sea below, Conca dei Marini feels like two towns in one. The uphill teems with citrus-scented air, olive orchards, and ancient structures. Head down, and you're met with the sound of waves and fishermen's boats. There are six beautiful churches in the village, and each deserves your attention. The Church of San Pancrazio, the most famous one in the town, is perched above the coast. This place of worship is known for the legend of the Janare — local women accused of being witches, though they were likely lonely and misunderstood. The church's palm-lined courtyard opens to remarkable views, and inside, you can admire the architecture and glowing mosaics.
Don't miss the Church of Santa Maria di Grado, which sits on a cliff not far from the Monastery of Santa Rosa. Not only is this one of the area's oldest sites, but it also holds a sacred relic: the head of Saint Barnabas. Meanwhile, the 13th-century Church of Sant'Antonio offers a serene moment right above the sea. And, among the greenery, you'll encounter San Michele Arcangelo, a small, weathered chapel with a charm that time hasn't erased.
You have to treat yourself at the Monastero Santa Rosa Hotel & Spa — after all, you're on vacation. Once a convent, the hotel is now a luxury wellness retreat with gorgeous panoramas. You can book a massage in the spa suite (complete with steam room and garden terrace) or under a pergola in the outdoor treatment garden. The place is internationally awarded, and it's easy to see why. And when you've seen it all in Conca dei Marini, drive 20 minutes to get to Minori, a seaside town in the Amalfi Coast's heart that's also a less touristy getaway.