Hidden On Guatemala's Coast Is A Quirky, Under-The-Radar Town With A Vibrant Caribbean Culture

Two of Central America's most alluring features for travelers are its pristine natural beauty and ancient Mayan structures; Guatemala has both in spades. The country is home to several popular destinations, like Tikal, which has some of the best Mayan ruins in all of Central America, and the iconic Lake Atitlán, which gives Italy's Lake Como competition as the 'World's Most Beautiful Lake.' One place that gets overlooked on many Guatemala itineraries is the port town of Livingston. While you may have not heard of the little town situated on the eastern side of the country, you may have heard of the Rio Dulce — a scenic river that winds its way past the town of the same name and then all the way to Livingston. Taking a languid boat ride down the Rio Dulce also happens to be the easiest way to get to Livingston (the alternative being a three-hour jungle hike), which is why this little town remains relatively off the beaten path.

Those that make their way to Livingston are rewarded by a colorful Caribbean town that packs in more authentic culture and gorgeous nature than many places in the world. The town is home to Guatemala's only African-descended community, the Garifuna, and has a rich history because of its historical heyday as a busy Caribbean port. You'll find food, culture, and activities here that you won't find in other parts of the country. However, remember that Livingston is a low-lying tropical region surrounded by water, so keep your adventurous spirits high and pack well for when you encounter the region's heavy humidity and over-friendly bugs.

Livingston is a slice of vibrant culture different from the rest of Guatemala

Livingston's mix of Garifuna and local Q'eqchi Maya cultures give the town a very different cultural feel from the rest of the country. Additionally, it hosted sailors from various parts of the world when they required shelter from the Caribbean Sea. The result is a colorful, laid-back vibe that seeps into the food, music, and celebrations. Expect to hear reggae and rasta music emanating from beachside shacks. To dive deeper into Garifuna culture, look out for signs or buildings sporting black, yellow, and white coloring, which represents the community's flag. Tuk-tuks are the best way to get around when exploring Livingston.

For food, head to small, family-run restaurants serving up fresh fish. While a plate of fried fish, rice with beans, and salad is a local staple, there are specific Garifuna dishes like tapado, a creamy seafood soup, and machuca, a coconut soup, that are definitely worth trying. The local liquor, gifiti, is popular, affordable, and has a refreshing herbal flavor.

Also, it's not just the food and culture that draw visitors to this vibrant town, Livingston has gorgeous, laid-back beaches. The closest is La Capitania, which can easily be walked to. Slightly further is Quehueche Beach, which tends to be less crowded and is reachable by tuk-tuk. For a full day excursion, head to Playa Blanca, which is about an hour away by boat. For a shorter boat ride, head to 7 Altares — a series of seven cascading pools in the middle of the jungle. Picturesque and perfect for a dip, these pools were once a Garufina ceremonial site. Of course, for the best cascading pools in Central America, head to Guatemala's Semuc Champey.

A relaxing ride down the Rio Dulce is the perfect, off-the-beaten-path trip

A visit to Livingston is more about soaking in the local culture than visiting specific sights, so it is best combined with a broader trip down the Rio Dulce, which lets you explore the region. You'll first need to get to Rio Dulce town, which is accessible by road from the country's capital, Guatemala City. There are several bus and taxi services you can use, and the drive can take anywhere from six to nine hours, depending on traffic. Expect to pay about $25 for the bus journey. There's also an airport just outside Rio Dulce, and flights from Guatemala City are only about an hour long.

The area has lots of accommodation options, from hostels and budget rooms in Livingston starting from around $20 a night to more picturesque jungle lodges and even luxury choices. Consider how close you want to be to nature and the beach when choosing your accommodation. The high humidity in the area is inescapable (you will be in the rainforest after all), but temperatures and rainfall are lower between November and April, during the dry season.

From Rio Dulce, a boat ride to Livingston takes about 90 minutes. However, you can also take a cruise boat, which is slower and will show you points of interest along the way. Expect to pay around 125 Guatemalan Quetzals (around $16, at the time of this writing) for a regular boat journey. While Livingston is down river towards the sea, another option is to go up river from Rio Dulce to Lake Izabal, which feeds the waterway. 

Recommended