A Tiny Fairytale Island On Italy's Lake Maggiore Has Romantic Seafood Restaurants And Secluded Stays
Follow the delightful curves of Lake Maggiore from its northernmost point, and you'll find yourself in the company of some of Switzerland's most iconic and prettiest destinations. But eventually, you'll reach the invisible border with Italy, where lush peaks and classic Italian-style terracotta-roofed villages punctuate the lake's shores. Here, the lake splits into two distinct Italian regions: Lombardy and Piedmont. At the southern end, it twists in two directions, towards Milan to the south and into a small inlet in the north. And it's there, just a stone's throw across the water from Stresa on the lake's western shore, where you'll find Isola dei Pescatori, one of a romantic trio of islands (the Borromean Islands) that make up some of Lake Maggiore's most secluded and stunning destinations.
The island's old town is a walkable warren with heaps of fairytale appeal, historic architecture, crisscrossing alleyways, and a surprisingly large collection of restaurants serving fresh seafood and hearty Piedmont cuisine paired with mountain views. For those staying the night, the island is ambiently lit in various shades, adding to the enchantment. Book a bed in a boutique hotel like Villa Toscanini, whose rooms offer sublime views of Lake Maggiore from the southern shore of Isola dei Pescatori.
Things to see on Isola dei Pescatori
Pay attention to the houses fringing the shores; you'll note that many have long balconies on the upper floors, once used by local fishermen for drying fish. Fishing was the island's major industry until tourism came along and earned it the epithet Isola dei Pescatori (Fishermen's Island). Another name (and the one you'll find on online maps) is Isola Superiore (Upper Island), as it's the most northern Borromean Island.
The old town, with its busy little lanes, is the kind of place where walking is not only encouraged but necessary, as Isola dei Pescatori is a car-free paradise. Its main attraction is the Church of San Vittore, whose impressive bell tower dominates the skyline. Take a peek inside to see remnants of the 10th-11th-century apse and 16th-century frescoes. Immerse yourself in a local tradition on August 15, when the church's Virgin of Assunta figure is sailed around to celebrate the Assumption of the Virgin Mary in a procession of fishing boats lit by candlelight.
When the pull of that bedazzlingly clear water proves too much, head to the northern shores to sunbathe and swim on beaches home to half-submerged trees when the tide is high. Afterwards, when those pretty lights slowly light up the streets, take a seat in a restaurant like CasaBella or Trattoria Imbarcadero, both of which have idyllic lakeside terraces and serve delicious fish plucked fresh from the lake served in pastas, risottos, and as fillets such as breaded perch.
Getting to Isola dei Pescatori from Milan
As the closest major airport to Isola dei Pescatori is Milan Malpensa Airport (MXP), it would be a shame to pass on the opportunity to sample the world-class food and fashion of Milan. From there, the journey from Milan to Lake Maggiore is straightforward and can be completed by bus in less than 1 hour and 30 minutes and less than an hour by private car.
Once you arrive at Lake Maggiore, you'll take a boat from Piazza Guglielmo Marconi in Stresa to Isola dei Pescatori. There are numerous options, including ferries, private charters, and taxi boats, which will take you to each of the Borromean Islands. The journey to Isola dei Pescatori by ferry takes approximately 10-15 minutes, and you'll need to pay, in addition to the fare, a nominal landing tax at the ticket counters before boarding.
When you're ready to leave, consider taking a boat to another of the Borromean Islands: the one that doesn't get enough attention, the elegant Isola Bella. Or consider continuing your exploration of the Italian lakes just a short drive west from Lake Maggiore at this gorgeous under-the-radar alternative to Lake Como.