Hidden In The Italian Alps Is An Eerie Horror Movie Set At This Once-Thriving Abandoned Hotel
Atop a pretty mountain peak at the edge of the Italian Alps lies an unexpected sight: an abandoned hotel that has seen better days. The Grand Hotel Campo dei Fiori sits on Monte Tre Croci at an elevation of nearly 4,000 feet in Varese, a picturesque city nestled in alpine foothills and filled with natural beauty. It's just over an hour from Milan, one of Italy's most popular cities known for its mouth-watering food. And from its perch up high, this eerie former vacation spot overlooks the surrounding forests and city down below.
The 200-room Grand Hotel Campo dei Fiori was constructed between 1908 and 1910, during the height of Varese's tourism boom, and opened in 1912. To reach the mountaintop estate, visitors would take a 20-minute funicular ride, which offered them stunning panoramic views. Designed in the Art Nouveau style by famed Italian architect Giuseppe Sommaruga, this luxury hotel was meant to be a retreat for the wealthy — a chance for them to escape the hustle and bustle of the city. Guests came to hobnob with the elite, listen to live music, dance the night away, and enjoy the mountain vistas.
However, all good things come to an end. The impact of the two World Wars on tourism was felt strongly in the area, and over time, business waned. In 1968, the hotel shuttered its doors permanently. The building then sat for decades in disrepair — part of the ceiling had collapsed, the furniture became covered in dust, and the elegant motifs started to fade. But this once-thriving spot that previously attracted Italian socialites is more than just an old hotel that fell upon hard times. It's also the set of the 2017 horror film, "Suspiria," which breathed new life into this forgotten, crumbling building hidden in the mountains.
Filming Suspiria at the Grand Hotel Campo dei Fiori
"Suspiria" is a remake of the classic 1977 Italian horror film of the same name. It follows an American ballerina studying at a prestigious German dance academy that hides a lair for an ancient coven of witches. The story takes place in the Kreuzberg neighborhood of West Berlin in 1977. So, the filming location had to have the aesthetic of Cold War-era Germany but also feel timeless. All of the dance academy scenes were filmed in various rooms of the Grand Hotel Campo dei Fiori, including those taking place in the witches' living quarters, the dorm rooms, and the Room of the Feasts.
Inbal Weinberg, the film's production designer, shares with The New York Times Style Magazine why this hotel was chosen, stating that it "was very much like the Grand Budapest Hotel, if there were ever a real one," referring to the acclaimed Wes Anderson movie. Although there were numerous logistical issues, including the lack of running water, electricity, and a sewer system, alternative locations that were scouted didn't capture the essence of a 1970s dance academy turned witches' coven quite like this spot.
Unfortunately, it's not currently possible to enter and see the site of the witches' lair for yourself, as the hotel is in dire need of renovations. In the past, the annual Mountain Festival was held in the nearby gardens, and on certain days, the property was opened up for occasional organized tours set up by the FAI (The National Trust for Italy). But at the time of this writing, no information is available on whether the festival will continue to be held here and if a future guided tour will be scheduled. However, you can always admire this beacon of Belle Époque luxury from the outside.
Planning your visit to Varese and the Grand Hotel Campo dei Fiori
The Grand Hotel Campo dei Fiori is just under 30 minutes by car from Varese's city center and can be accessed by public transport. It's surrounded by beautiful parkland peppered with old villas and shaded by trees. You'll reach the hotel by hiking an easy path to the top of the Campo Dei Fiori hill, passing through serene wooded areas to reach the hotel. Upon arrival, you'll have breathtaking views of the city and the lush greenery below.
If you're flying into Italy, the closest airport is Milano Malpensa International Airport (MXP) in Milan, which is 22 miles south of Varese. There are direct flights to Milan from a few American cities, including New York and Atlanta. To reach Varese, there is a railway connection, the S50, available from the airport, which operates hourly and is a convenient 40-minute trip. As Italy is part of Europe's Schengen Area, citizens of most nations (including the U.S.) don't need a tourist visa for stays under 90 days and can move freely between these 29 countries.
As for accommodations, you'll have plenty of options in Varese, including romantic mountain-top hotels, wellness resorts, budget B&Bs, and more. Additionally, Varese is an hour and a half from Lake Como, the third-largest lake in the country and an upscale tourism destination known for its alpine beauty, charming towns, and presence of Hollywood A-listers. If you choose to base yourself here, find your perfect vacation home from this list of the best places to stay on the iconic Lake Como. To escape the crowds, your best bet is Brunate, just around an hour east of Varese. This hidden Italian village, called "The Balcony of the Alps," overlooks Lake Como and offers historical sites and scenic vistas.