Situated Between Valencia And Barcelona Is A Wildly Underrated Gothic City For A Taste Of Traditional Spain

The sea road between Barcelona and the underrated foodie city of Valencia is a wonderful drive and a great spot for a Spanish road trip. Hugging the Mediterranean coast, you'll pass stunning beaches, rugged cliffs, and dramatic mountain peaks, the natural beauty of the Ebro Delta and the Parc Natural de la Serra d'Irta, as well as gorgeous cities like Tarragona, an uncrowded and cheaper alternative to Barcelona. But the highlight of this delightful route is found just off the main road, about 35 miles inland. Perched on a hill overlooking the plains, the ancient walled city of Morella is an impressive sight, and although small, it is well worth a short detour to discover the charms of this wildly underrated Gothic town.

Morella is a fairly remote spot and is definitely best visited as part of a Spanish road trip from Barcelona to Valencia. The nearest airport is Valencia Airport, around a 2-hour drive away, with Barcelona-El Prat Airport reachable in just under three hours. It is also a wonderful place for outdoor adventurers looking for a base for an expedition, as the surrounding landscape is filled with fantastic hiking trails.  

What makes Morella stand out from other hill towns of the region is its rich, fascinating history. Due to its imposing hilltop location, it has been an important strategic position for centuries. Originally settled by the Iberian peoples and then ancient Greeks and Romans, many of the oldest remaining buildings in the town were built by the Visigoths, who took over Morella from the Romans. The town passed back and forth between the Moorish and Christian rulers who warred in Spain for hundreds of years, and played an important role in the War of the Spanish Succession, the Napoleonic Wars, and the Spanish Civil War.

Morella appears on the horizon some time before you arrive, and it is immediately easy to see why this place is so special. The castle towers above the town and the surrounding plains, dominating the skyline, and the ancient city walls add another impressive visual element. The town is filled with centuries-old historic buildings, exquisite churches, and winding cobbled streets and rambling alleyways. The best way to enjoy Morella at first is just to get lost and soak up the rich history of your surroundings.

The medieval walls, built in the 14th century to protect against incursions from the Moorish kingdoms to the south, are one of the main highlights of the town. The old castle is another, built by the Iberians during the Bronze Age and rebuilt in the 13th century. Morella also has some of the best-preserved Gothic churches in Spain, with the Basilica de Santa Maria la Major and the convent of San Francisco standing as particularly good examples of the style. 

Another impressive landmark that makes a trip to Morella both interesting and exciting is the aqueduct of Santa Lucia. Designed to look like an older, Roman-style structure, the aqueduct actually dates back to the 14th century, when Morella was recaptured from the Moors. Its arches and pillars are an impressive site, and it makes a fantastic destination for a moderate hike that follows a well-marked trail, offering a chance to see how this historic man-made structure sits within the landscape it shapes and manipulates.

But it's not all ancient history in this picturesque Spanish hill town. Morella is vibrant and full of life, with a variety of excellent restaurants and a wonderful traditional festival. It is also at the heart of one of Spain's best hiking regions. The main event is the Sexenni, one of the oldest festivals in Spain and arguably the most significant celebration in the region. Originally held to honor the Virgin de Vallivana, it only takes place once every six years, making it an unmissable event if you are lucky enough to coincide your visit. Thousands of people attend, transforming this sleepy, historic spot into a chaotic, vivid burst of color, music, and performance, with dancing, parades, religious ceremonies, and other cultural happenings. 

If you miss out on the Sexenni, you can still enjoy a taste of traditional Spain in Morella thanks to its excellent local cuisine. The town and the wider region is famous for truffles, and the local market is bursting with these little nuggets of flavorful black gold, especially during Truffle Days in late January to early March. Morella also has a local delicacy that is worth trying, a delicate pastry creation that combines sugar, mint, aniseed and cheese known as flaó. If you want to try the local cuisine, it is worth heading to Casa Roque. The chef takes a contemporary approach to classic dishes, and the kitchen is particularly famous for its truffle-infused lamb. Another fantastic local favorite is Mesón del Pastor, a family-run eatery serving up unbelievably tasty stews and an incredibly affordable set menu.