A Charming, Affordable, Laidback Beach Town In The Caribbean Costa Maya Has Mexico's Largest Coral Atoll
Mexico is one of the best places in the world to dive. It's full of incredibly rich, vibrant underwater environments, from the Sea of Cortez, described by Jacques Cousteau as "the world's aquarium," to the stunning coral "walls" of the island of Cozumel. You can swim with whale sharks off the coast of La Paz in Baja California and Holbox Island in the Yucatan, or explore the crystal-clear waters of Mexico's iconic cenotes.
But one of the most exciting and unusual dive sites in Mexico, hidden away in an unexplored corner of the Caribbean Costa Maya, is surprisingly underrated. Far from the bustling tourist hubs of Cancun, Playa del Carmen, and Tulum, Mahahual offers a more laid-back version of the Caribbean dream, with plenty of coastal beauty to go around.
Tucked away in the south of Quintana Roo state, near the city of Chetumal on the Belize border by the bright blue beauty of Bacalar lagoon, Mahahual is located far from the standard Riviera Maya tourist trail. Around 35 miles off the main highway that runs from Cancun in the north to Chetumal in the south, it's a fairly remote spot. As a result, it's not the easiest place to get to. Chetumal International Airport is nearly two hours away by car, and the Limones-Chacchoben stop on the Tren Maya route is just under an hour's drive by taxi or bus. But the seclusion is a feature, not a bug, of this delightful, affordable beach town, and once you're there, you'll be overjoyed with the contrast it offers to some of the more accessible and more expensive Costa Maya destinations.
Crocs and manatees at the Banco Chinchorro
While remote, Mahahual isn't exactly undiscovered. There is a cruise port, and when a ship is in town, it can be quite busy But as soon as the passengers are back on board their ship, you'll have the place to yourself. With a stretch of beach running the length of the main town and miles and miles of jungle-fringed coast to the north and south, it's easy to get away from it all and relax. If even the occasional influx of cruise tourists is too much, the town of Xcalak, just a few miles to the south, is the perfect escape.
But the real draw of Mahahual is the Banco Chinchorro, Mexico's largest coral atoll and a UNESCO-protected marine habitat. Surrounded by bright reefs and atmospheric caverns and tunnels, the shallow waters of the Banco Chinchorro offer one of the most fascinating and unusual diving experiences in Mexico. This remarkable underwater world offers the huge schools of vivid electric sergeant majors, angelfish, and groupers that you would expect to find in Caribbean waters, as well as lobsters, rays, and various types of sharks.
It also gives divers the chance to swim with species you're unlikely to find in any other saltwater environment, as the calm shallows of the atoll itself are home to turtles, American crocodiles, and manatees. Diving with these gentle mammals is a particularly unique and charming experience and one that makes a trip to Mahahual a must for scuba enthusiasts. You don't even have to be a certified diver to enjoy the best of this wonderful destination, as many of the best spots are shallow enough to be explored with just a snorkel.
Mayan heritage, sport fishing, and affordable eats
Like many of the most popular spots up and down the Riviera Maya, Mahahual began life as an unassuming fishing village. However, unlike the resort towns of Playa del Carmen, Tulum, Cancun, and Puerto Morelos, Mahahual has maintained a strong connection to its roots and, as a result, is one of the most chilled-out and inexpensive spots anywhere in Quintana Roo. If diving isn't your thing, there are a host of local guides and small boat captains waiting to take you out on the waves, either just to enjoy a boat trip or for a more serious sport fishing expedition.
It is also a great base from which to explore the fascinating Mayan heritage of the region. Situated about 50 miles from Mahahual, Chacchoben is one of the Costa Maya's most interesting archaeological sites. Well-preserved temples along with ruined plazas and ceremonial platforms are scattered around the site, hidden amongst trees and jungle foliage, with a vast central pyramid towering above the canopy at the center. Its location as a hub connecting the vast Mayan empire that spread across Central America makes it one of the best pyramids to visit in all of Mexico.
The great thing about Mahahual is that even if you decide to do nothing at all, you'll still have a fabulous time. The malecon runs along the beach, almost on the sand itself, and is lined with excellent, affordable places to eat and drink. The popular spots at the north end of the village, like Krazy Lobster and Tropicante, are usually lively and buzzing, with tables on the sand, great drinks, and beach party vibes all day long. If you're after a more laid-back, authentic experience, head further south to Luna's for shrimp ceviche or a serene sunset at the exquisite Chunky Monkey Beach Club right at the end of town.