A Road Trip Through This California County Offers Scenic Wilderness Vistas, Hot Springs, And Cinnamon Rolls

The definition of "California Dreaming" is cruising down Highway 1 in a convertible and exploring the state's striking coast, with salty ocean air in your lungs and your favorite playlist blasting as you hop from one beach town to the next. And while the Golden State is practically synonymous with the beach, when you're not chasing waves, you're probably planning your next road trip to one of its national parks — it does have more than any other state in the country, after all. But just when you think you've checked off every must-see destination, California throws another surprise your way.

In the state's far northeast, right on the border of Oregon, you'll come across the rugged, remote, and unbelievably picturesque Modoc County. At first glance, it might seem like another stretch of small towns and quiet living, but this underrated region is full of breathtaking landscapes, volcanic history, and even hot springs and mouthwatering cinnamon rolls that are worth the drive on their own.

There's a right way to travel around Modoc County, and this is the path you should take for the ultimate road trip. The best time to visit is in the fall, when you'll experience cooler weather and bright fall colors. Spring is also a great option, as the weather is ideal for hiking in the dense forests. Summer can get pretty hot, so be prepared, though you can still engage in outdoor activities like camping and fishing. Winter temperatures can dip low, with snow covering the scenery every now and then. As for getting to Modoc County, avoid California airports and fly into Crater Lake–Klamath Regional Airport in Oregon instead; it's less than an hour from your first stop and only an hour and 45 minutes from the first town on the itinerary.

You can road trip through Modoc County in two or three days, and even taking the shorter option, you'll cover plenty of ground. About 45 minutes after leaving the airport, you'll reach Petroglyph Point in Lava Beds National Monument, the starting point of your itinerary. This rock formation is home to one of California's largest collections of Native American rock carvings. The Modoc people once paddled across Tula Lake's water to carve thousands of geometric patterns into the volcanic cliffs, some of which are possibly over 6,000 years old. While rock art often features animals or people, these symbols remain a mystery. Beneath the surface of Lava Beds National Monument lies a network of lava tube caves. Grab a flashlight and walk into the cool darkness of these openings that were formed by ancient volcanic eruptions. Some are easy walks, while others require crawling through narrow passages — choose your level of adventure.

Once you've soaked in the history and checked out the caves, get back on the road and drive for an hour southeast to Alturas, Modoc County's main town. This city is the gateway to Modoc National Wildlife Refuge, a paradise found in the Golden State's high desert. The 7,000-acre refuge is a peaceful location where wetlands, grasslands, and reservoirs provide a home for countless birds and animals. Look for graceful sandhill cranes, flocks of tricolored blackbirds, and even pronghorn antelope meandering the plains.

After wandering the refuge, you'll want to return to Alturas for some rest; Day Two starts early and has even more stops. Hotels here are simple, so don't expect timeless L.A. luxury like Hotel Bel-Air. Instead, places like Super 8 by Wyndham and Hotel Niles offer comfortable stays, or you can check Airbnb for local options.

On your second day, you'll want to rise early and head west from Alturas to South Warner Wilderness, a vast 70,000-acre expanse of untouched nature. Towering peaks, deep valleys, and over 80 miles of trails make this a haven for hikers and horseback riders. The striking cliffs behind Patterson Lake are a sight to behold, and if you're up for a challenge, you can trek to Eagle Peak, the region's highest point at nearly 9,900 feet. The views extend for miles and reward you with a true sense of the area's untamed nature.

From there, it's about a half-hour drive to Surprise Valley, where steaming hot springs await. Tucked between historic lake basins and jagged summits, these mineral-rich pools are the perfect way to relax after being on the road for so long. The calm surroundings, wide-open horizons, and warmth of the springs will provide you with a much-needed break. Once you've fully recharged, grab a meal at Country Hearth Restaurant & Bakery. Their cinnamon rolls are legendary, but if you want something savory, the fish tacos and corn on the cob won't disappoint.

As the day winds down, head a little over an hour north toward Fandango Pass, a historic route once traveled by pioneers. This site was a turning point for those on the Applegate and Lassen Trails, guiding them through the mountains toward Oregon and California. From there, continue to Goose Lake State Recreation Area, where you can watch the sunset in the best possible place. Here, you'll see mule deer roaming the meadows and migratory birds gathering in the shallows while the raw beauty of the lake melts into the evening. While California's Sierra Mountains hide secret towns with endless outdoor adventures, Modoc County just does things differently.