One Of Rick Steves' Favorite 'Ends' Of Europe Is A Captivating Landmark With Intercontinental Views

In ancient Greece, the edge of the known world was marked by the Pillars of Hercules, twin mountains that rose from the mouth of the Mediterranean. One promontory stands tall off the Iberian Peninsula and the other strikes up from the continental tip of North Africa. What lay beyond these pillars was then unknown.  

Today, we know one of these pillars as the Rock of Gibraltar, a part of the British territory off the coast of southern Spain. In many ways, it still demarcates the edge of Europe, as Rick Steves found in his travels.  "A highlight of a visit here is a trip up to the summit of the spectacular, iconic Rock; a cable car takes you to the very top. The limestone massif is nearly a mile long, rising 1,400 feet with sheer faces," Steves writes on his website. "At the top you can explore old ramparts and drool at the 360-degree view of Morocco, the Strait of Gibraltar, and the twinkling Costa del Sol arcing eastward." 

This small but iconic British outpost has more than a spectacular view. For curious visitors, this is a fascinating place to see how geography has shaped the history of empires. 

Gibraltar: a British enclave in Spain with a unique identity

At its narrowest point, the Straits of Gibraltar are just 8 miles between Africa and Europe. This strategic location, controlling the doorway between Mediterranean and the Atlantic, has made Gibraltar a prize for empires. Even today, the Straits of Gibraltar are a vital shipping lane with about 300 ships passing each day. In the 18th century, British forces captured Gibraltar in the War of Spanish Succession. To this day, both countries feud over the territory.

While technically not an island, Gibraltar has the feel of one. A British enclave in Spain forging its own unique identity. Known locally as Gib or The Rock, the whole area is under 3 square miles with about 30,000 residents, nearly half of which commute over the border every day. Amazingly, it has an international airport with direct flights to London. You can also drive there in under an hour from the Spanish city of Algeciras. Since Brexit, however, the queues at customs have gotten longer. It also has its own currency, the Gibraltar Pound, tied to the British Sterling.

Life revolves around the giant limestone rock in the middle. Take the cable car to the top and wind your way down the mountain. There are spectacular views of the sandy beaches of Spain's Costa del Sol on one side. On the other, the North African coast of Morocco and Algeria, an untouched and little-visited gem of the region. Watch out for The Rock's famously feisty residents, hundreds of Barbary Macaques. Some of these tailless monkeys are friendly but don't feed them! You can be fined thousands of dollars for it.

From top of The Rock to beaches, monkeys and dolphins in Gibraltar

Winding down from the mountain, the Upper Rock Nature Reserve has several walking trails that highlight natural sites like St. Maichael's Cave or historical sites like the Great Siege Tunnels, underground defenses against the French and Spanish siege of the territory in the 18th century. Once you get off The Rock, you'll find most of your options for eating, drinking, and sleeping in Gibraltar. Casamates Square and Chatham Counterguard are both popular places to eat with a variety of options. For a uniquely Gibraltar specialty, try a japonesa. A doughnut-like cake that's crispy on the outside and creamy on the inside often drizzled with syrup or dusted with sugar. Traditional japonesas are served at Amar's Bakery, one of the oldest family-run bakeries in the territory. 

One of the best ways to round out the day in Gibraltar is relaxing at the beach. Both Eastern Beach and Catalan Beach are popular spots for locals to unwind. On the other side, Europa Point is a good sunset spot, although the best sunset view is at the very top of The Rock. If you have an extra day in Gibraltar, dolphin and whale watching is an excellent excursion.

For a place once considered the ends of the earth, Gibraltar is a quirky and easy place to visit. For other edge-of-the-world destinations, check out Rick Steve's recommendations: The cliff-side beaches of Portugal's Cape Soares and the rugged but enchanting Aran Islands of Ireland.

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