A Coastal Virginia County On Chesapeake Bay Is Packed With History, Art, And Miles Of Beautiful Beaches

Virginia's Middle Peninsula is tucked quietly between its famous neighbors, the Northern Neck and Virginia Peninsula. While you may have driven down U.S. Highway 17 and passed through Gloucester, there's much more to discover in this area. Three coastal counties occupy the eastern tip of the Middle Peninsula: Gloucester, Middlesex, and Mathews. Of the three, Mathews is the one with the most beach frontage on Chesapeake Bay.

The area is rural, with farm fields and winding two-lane county roads. But that doesn't mean there aren't charming diversions for any visitor, from wineries, antiquing, and art gallery hopping to sandy beaches and boating adventures. Along with even more charming coastal towns like Kilmarnock on the Northern Neck, this part of Virginia offers some incredible getaway opportunities.

Mathews County was known as Kingston Parish as far back as 1651 but didn't officially separate from neighboring Gloucester County until 1791. Much of the area's early history comes from shipbuilding. But, like many Chesapeake Bay communities, the towns here are fishing villages at heart. Fresh-off-the-boat oysters, crabs, and fish are never far at hand in the Middle Peninsula.

Life in the county is centered around the welcoming small town of Mathews. In addition to the local market and hardware store, you'll find a lively downtown area circling the 19th-century courthouse and square. You'll want to stroll through the Bay School Community Art Center to glimpse local artists' creations. More galleries are also dotted around town, and the annual Made in Mathews open studio tour offers the chance to meet even more creatives. If you get hungry, this little town has plenty of dining choices. The local favorite is The White Dog Bistro, which has a nearly five-star rating on Tripadvisor.

Mathews County is home to over 250 miles of Chesapeake Bay shoreline, divided among the open bay and protected inner creeks. There are many great places to spend a little time on the sand, but your first stops should be Haven Beach and Bethel Beach. Both are easy drives to the county's eastern side, but finding them feels like an adventure as you navigate miles of narrow roads. The beaches are surrounded by salt marshes teeming with birdlife. Another spot worth visiting is at the county's southern tip: New Point Comfort Natural Area Preserve. There's a lighthouse offshore, a viewing platform, and a kayak launch that allows you to explore the nearby sandbars.

Driving around the surrounding areas is a treat, too. Art-filled antique shops pop up out of nowhere, like Etc Vintage on the corner of Routes 3 and 198. Nearby is another surprise: Zoll Vineyards, a 16.5-acre winery with a unique delicious pairing menu. And, tucked quietly in the county's northeast corner, you'll find a serene getaway on Gwynn's Island.

The central hub of the Middle Peninsula is the little town of Gloucester, built along Highway 17, the main north-south corridor between Fredericksburg and Hampton, one of America's oldest cities. Mathews is a further 20 minutes east. The nearest airport is in Newport News, about one hour away, but very few flights land there. A better bet is the airport in Richmond, which is about an hour and a half west of Mathews by car.

There aren't too many inns or traditional lodging options in Mathews County. For the most part, this area is under the tourist radar. It's popular with second homeowners, however, and many rentals are available on sites like Vrbo and Airbnb. For around $125 a night, you can find cottages in town, and for around $300, you can discover bayside homes with private docks. Alternatively, The Inn at Tabbs Creek is a bed and breakfast with a beautiful setting and a five-star rating on Tripadvisor. Or, for the ultimate beach vacay, check out Hudge Park Island, a lovely rental house on a completely private sandy island.

The best beach weather is found from mid-June through mid-September, corresponding to the Middle Peninsula's busiest time. However, this area is hardly overrun and makes for a great getaway no matter the time of year. Autumn colors on the Bay are lovely, and winters are cold but generally bearable.