A Less-Crowded Beach In Oaxaca Offers Stunning Sandy Shores And Delectable Local Mexican Eats

In the past, Mexico's Oaxaca coastline was a true hidden gem. Getting there from the iconic, vibrant, art-filled streets of Oaxaca City meant a six-hour journey on winding roads up and down a jungle-covered mountain or a hair-raising ride in a tiny twin-engine plane. This meant that its gorgeous beaches and stunning, croc-filled mangrove swamps were only really discovered by surfers and wildlife enthusiasts. But as more flights have arrived to Puerto Escondido and Huatulco and a new road from Oaxaca City has opened up the coast, spots like San Agustinillo and Mazunte, one of Mexico's best magic towns, are well known. 

Huatulco in particular has grown significantly and its nine bays are now a famous destination. But even in this fully-discovered spot, you can still find uncrowded beaches that fly under the radar. Unlike many of the other beaches and bays around Santa Cruz Huatulco, Bahía San Agustín has no high-rise hotels or large resort-type development and has remained blissfully undiscovered by foreign tourists. It's a charming stretch of golden sand about a mile long, backed by palapa-style restaurants serving up mouthwateringly fresh seafood and delectable fish tacos, in a protected bay which makes it perfect for a long, lazy day at the beach. 

This is surprising because it is really not at all hard to get to. Sure, if you arrive in Santa Cruz de Huatulco on a cruise ship it is not going to be on your radar, given it is on the other side of the Huatulco National Park and the paradise views and clear waters of Playa la Entrega, Mexico's southernmost beach, are right there. But Bahía San Agustín is only a short half-hour taxi ride down an unassuming sandy road from Huatulco International Airport, so the fact that it remains so quiet and peaceful is something of a mystery.

The best thing to do in Bahía San Agustín is, to be honest, nothing. This isn't somewhere you come seeking thrills and a host of tourist attractions to keep you distracted. It's a place that rewards slowing down and leaning into the laid-back atmosphere that permeates the bay. Essentially, it's somewhere to let your hair down and enjoy a do-nothing day at the beach.

The waters are unusually calm for the Pacific Ocean, thanks to the protection of both sides of the bay, which means there's plenty of opportunity for swimming if you need a break from the sun lounger. There is also a colorful coral reef just offshore, so if the mood takes you, strap on fins and a mask and swim out, or hire a boat to take you a little further. You won't be disappointed, as the underwater world here is a vivid electric dream filled with tropical fish, rays, morays, turtles, and even dolphins and whales at certain times of the year. 

Most of the restaurants and bars that line the sand rent out snorkel gear if you don't have it yourself. This brings us to another of the treasures of Bahía San Agustín: the food. We're not talking fine dining, of course, but neither are we talking standard tourist trap rubbish. The casual palapa-style joints serve up lip-smacking fresh ceviches, fish tacos, grilled octopus, and a range of other antojitos (snacks) like sopes, quesadillas, and flautas. The fish comes off the boats in the morning and is hard to beat, washed down with an ice-cold Pacifico beer. The octopus at El Calvario is a highlight, and don't forget to ask for the camarones rellenos at El Playon, even if they aren't on the menu!

If a handful of families and a few fishing boats still feels like too much, there are several other nearby options where you genuinely might have an entire beach to yourself. Further along the dirt road, Playa Riscalillo is a gorgeous stretch of pristine sand with a couple of restaurants (essentially just plastic tables and beach umbrellas on the sand) and great snorkeling. Going even more remote, Playa Manglillo and Playa Jicaral are well off the beaten track, making them perfect for getting away from everyone and soaking up the peace and quiet. 

Wildlife lovers might want to hire a boat to take them even further along the coast into the Huatulco National Park to Bahía Chachacual, a stunning crescent of virgin beach deep in the nature reserve surrounded by jungle. Here you'll see a vivid array of birds, gorgeous coral reefs, and a few footpaths leading off into the hinterland for the boldest souls to explore. 

One of the best ways to experience the joys of Bahía San Agustín is to stay overnight. The accommodation is limited and slightly rustic, but this only adds to the charm, and there's nothing like falling asleep lulled by the ocean breezes and the waves hitting the shore. Aldea Natalia offers simple adobe villas in the middle of the jungle overlooking Playa Cacalutilla, while the delightfully minimal Planta Glamp is a selection of lovely, artistically designed wooden cabanas set back away from the sea in the middle of nature.