A Country Once Called The 'North Korea Of Europe' Boasts Bunkers Transformed Into Beachside Restaurants

Albania, a friendly Mediterranean country full of beaches, is one of Europe's rising travel hotspots. But not long ago, it was known as the "North Korea of Europe," cut off from the world under the dictatorship of Enver Hoxha during the Cold War. Hoxha's isolationist policies shaped the country for over four decades, during which he severed ties even with other communist nations. The country stagnated economically and socially, its people living under strict surveillance and in fear of outside invasion. But since the fall of communism in the 1990s, Albania has transformed itself, including its Cold War-era structures.

Prime Minister Edi Rama said that tourism has increased 10-fold over the last decade, according to A2 CNN. "The growth is so great and it's not stopping. Come see for yourself," he said. "Albania, it's not what you thought, Albania is much more. Albania is all the senses."

Today, visitors come for Albania's low-cost luxury beaches with white sand, the vibrant food scene, and the history that lingers in the thousands of bunkers scattered across the country. These underground remnants of Hoxha's paranoia — once meant to shield Albania from an invasion that never came — have found new life. They've been turned into everything from restaurants and spas to museums and public art installations, making them a unique and unexpected addition to an Albanian travel itinerary.

Hoxha's obsession with defense left Albania with over 220,000 bunkers and military structures, according to CNN. Unlike other Eastern Bloc countries that dismantled their communist-era buildings, Albania took a different approach. Starting in the early 2000s, Prime Minister Edi Rama ( a former painter) led efforts to repurpose these structures into public art and museums. Nowhere is this more apparent than in Europe's funkiest capital city, Tirana, where two of the largest bunkers have been transformed into museums called Bunk'Art 1 and Bunk'Art 2.

Built as nuclear hideouts for Hoxha and his inner circle, these underground labyrinths now serve a new purpose. "We hope to help the Albanians reconcile themselves with their own history and their own past," said Carlo Bollino, curator of Bunk'Art, in an interview with Alaturka. Bunk'Art 1, a five-story bunker with 106 rooms, provides a sweeping look at Albania's history. Visitors enter through a long, dimly lit tunnel before encountering exhibits like a replicated communist-era apartment and a satirical gymnasium critiquing Hoxha's emphasis on school sports. Bunk'Art 2, located more centrally, focuses on the darker aspects of the regime, with exhibits on torture techniques used by military police and photos of those executed by the government.

For those wanting to visit, you can land in Tirana International Airport (TIA). From there, a 45-minute taxi ride or a bus to the city center gets you close to the museum sites. Bunk'Art 1 is further out, requiring a 40-minute bus ride from the city center, while Bunk'Art 2 is right next to the city's main square, Skanderbeg Square. Combined entry to both museums costs just under $8 and includes an app-based audio guide — but remember to bring your own headphones for the English version.

Not all of Albania's bunkers tell a somber story. Some have been reimagined as dining experiences, offering visitors a taste of history alongside traditional Albanian cuisine. Just outside Tirana, Kazerma e Cerenit is a restaurant built on a former military base. With a 4.5-star rating on TripAdvisor, it's known for its immersive atmosphere. The restaurant, created by Ismet Shehu, still retains its original bunker structure, once used to store tanks and weapons. The military theme extends to the menu: Servers dressed as soldiers bring guests Albanian dhallë (buttermilk) in canteen cups, and traditional flija — layered crepes cooked over an open flame — is served on military-style trays. "... Now it's a place of peace. ...," Shehu told CNN, highlighting the contrast between the site's past and present.

For a more laid-back experience, head to the coast. In Golem, a seaside town south of Durrës, Hotel Elesio offers a unique mix of history and relaxation. Built over a former bunker by Kujtim Roçi, the hotel originally started as a beach bar before expanding into a 4-star stay. The bunker itself still protrudes into the hotel's first floor, now serving as a small distillery where Roçi makes raki, Albania's national spirit. One TripAdvisor reviewer highlighted the hotel's location: "Hotel for people who like to swim in the sea or the pool, very well located, right next to a wide sandy beach." The nearest airport is Tirana International (TIA), from which Golem is about a 40-minute drive, making it an easy stop for travelers looking to experience Albania's coastline.