A Stunning Tourist-Free Bike Route Explores Dining And Scenery Through Sicily's Authentic Small Towns
If you're a sustainable traveler, pedaling your way through new places to avoid huge crowds, all while enjoying delicious meals and exploring one of Italy's most beautiful islands, then look no further than to the Sicily Divide bike route. This self-guided trail, designed during the 2020 pandemic, takes travelers and cyclists on a journey through Sicily's beautiful villages, culture, foodie paradises, and overall breathtaking countryside.
Stretching for a total of 286 miles and offering seven different routes to choose from, the Sicily Divide crosses the entire island from west to east (and vice versa). The Divide allows you to experience some of the most underrated and less visited villages on the island, as well as get to know the friendly locals. Another highlight is that three of the Divide's starting points — Trapani (west), Palermo (northwest), and Catania (east) — are located really close to some of Sicily's largest international airports (Catania Fontanarossa Airport, Palermo Falcone Borsellino Airport, and Trapani-Birgi Airport), making the Divide even easier to reach.
The route, however, is not as easy, as the many unpaved stretches of roads do require the use of mountain bikes. Fortunately enough, there are different shops to rent bikes along the way. And don't worry, hotels also abound all throughout the journey. As for the best season to tackle Sicily's Divide, spring is highly recommended to avoid the island's hot summer climate. Finally, be sure to get your Divider's Pass at the Divide's official website, which will allow you to collect discounts and other benefits along your journey.
Biking through western Sicily from Trapani to Montedoro
Starting in the west, you'll find the town of Trapani, 20 minutes from the Trapani-Birgi Airport. As you start cycling on the Divide, you'll be met with a gorgeous countryside on your way to Salemi. This picturesque town is filled with a rich historical heritage, with so much art, and it is located close to beautiful beaches. After a short climb you'll reach the village of Gibellina, where you'll find a Museum of Contemporary Art, ancient temples like the Valle dei Templi, and Sicily's famous wine cooperative, Cantina Ermes.
From Gibellina to Sambuca di Sicilia, you'll find most roads to be paved, making the route less challenging. Along this stretch you'll witness the ruins of the towns and cities struck by the 1968 Belice Valley earthquake, as well as the respective reconstruction efforts. At Sambuca di Sicilia — one of Italy's most beautiful villages adorned with Baroque and Catalan architecture — you'll be able to enjoy a delicious Sicilian meal at Antico Mulino or at Feria Bistrot, two of the most iconic restaurants in the town.
Next, after passing through the Sicani Park and Magazzolo Valley and Lake, you'll arrive in Santo Stefano Quisquina. The Andromeda Theater is certainly worth a visit, as well as dining at the Bar Pizzeria Spallino — boasting a 5-star rating on TripAdvisor. You will then be met with some challenging terrain and beautiful forests until you reach Montedoro, a prime spot for star-gazing with its own observatory. Before moving on with your journey, stop at the Le Cupolette Rosse for some fantastic seafood and other traditional Italian dishes.
From Montedoro to Catania to the east, all the way towards Mount Etna
Very close to Montedoro is Caltanisetta, a large city known for granting visitors a glimpse of medieval Sicily. Be sure to try some of the local cuisine — still maintaining some of its Arabic roots — at places like Zàghara Restaurant before heading to Enna, your next destination. As you pedal towards Enna, you'll reach the Divide's toughest climb. However, from the view from the top of the hill, down into the beautiful Dittaino Valley and Enna's historical architecture makes it worth the climb.
Visit Enna's Myth Museum, walk around the Rocca di Cerere, or delight yourself with "the best caponata (a traditional fried eggplant dish) in Sicily" at La Rustica, according to customers on TripAdvisor. After Enna comes the ancient town of Ragalbuto, surrounded by the Erei Mountains and other gorgeous Sicilian towns worth visiting. Then, as you start to get close to the Divide's east end, you'll be met by Europe's tallest active volcano, Mount Etna.
Finally, you'll see beautiful Catania with its Baroque architecture, iconic Elephant Fountain, must-see museums, and coastal village homes built atop Mount Etna's dried up lava. Catania is also an amazing foodie destination, where local delicacies such as the arancino, horse meatballs, pasta alla norma, and other wonderful street dishes will surely please your palate as you recharge your energies. In case you decide to end your travels in this city, the Catania Fontanarossa Airport is just 17 minutes away by bus.
Where to stay along your biking journey through Sicily
Palermo — Sicily's famous coastal foodie paradise — is also an amazing spot for starting your Divide journey. This alternate route stretches for a few more miles towards Catania, but you'll be able to take in Palermo's Arabic and Baroque beauty, its multicultural ambience, and of course, fill up on delicious Italian and Mediterranean food. Some restaurants to try include the Pomo & Pomo Sikulo Emporio, the at Biga Genio E Farina for some Sicilian pizza, or Finch Sushi where you'll enjoy some unique sushi combinations.
As for accommodations along this biking journey, the GPS route given to you when acquiring the Divider's pass will point towards the best bike-friendly hotels in Sicily. One of these is The Angelo Apartments Bike Hotel in Trapani's center, with rates starting at around $30 per night (prices change depending on the season). The D&P Suite 2 Bike Hotel in Salemi offers single rooms starting at around $60 at the time of writing, while the rates at the Mille & Una Notte Bike Hotel in Gibellina start at $45.
All the way out in Catania, the B&B Urban Pop Bike Hotel offers even more budget-friendly rates, starting at $15 depending on accommodation. Be sure to check out the Sicily Divide's hotel partners for other bike-friendly lodgings at Palermo and other destinations along the Divide. As a final piece of advice, be sure to stock up on water, food, and other supplies each time you visit any major town or city, as restocking later on could prove challenging.