Maine's Archipelago Of Islands With Cliffs, Caves, And Wild Beauty Are A Pristine Paddler's Playground

The Porcupine Islands are some of Maine's most photographed destinations, yet few people actually visit them. While driving around Mount Desert Island, you'll see the islands lying just offshore of Bar Harbor, extending a few miles east. In all, there are five islands and some smaller keys: Bar, Sheep Porcupine, Burnt Porcupine, Long Porcupine, and Bald Porcupine. Most of the islands are part of Acadia National Park, while The Nature Conservancy owns Long Porcupine.

The islands are named for their appearance: their rounded backs and pointy pine trees resemble a family of porcupines strolling across Frenchman Bay. Like most of the Maine coast, glaciers carved them during the Ice Age. The distinctive shape the ice left, with smooth north faces and sharp precipices on the south, is common in landscapes along the Maine coast.

So, how can you get the best up-close view of these jewels that dot Bar Harbor's sea views? While hiring a private boat charter to explore is a possible option, the most popular method is by sea kayak. Paddling allows you to experience the quiet calm of the scenery, get up close to wildlife, and explore all the nooks and crannies amongst the islands. With easy access from the town of Bar Harbor, changeable conditions, and stunning scenery, the Porcupine Islands provide a wonderful tour of the coastal scenery of Downeast Maine.

You'll want to find a put-in around Bar Harbor, the coastal town with mountain views and direct access to the Porcupine Islands. Your best bets are the sandbar at the end of Bridge Street or the town dock. The paddling route only covers about 4 to 6 miles, but the dramatic scenery and unpredictable weather can make it seem like an epic journey. You'll need to be flexible — if the wind churns up a chop in one direction, you might have to alter your course to stay in the protected lee of the islands. If you don't have your own kayak, guided tours and rentals are available from Coastal Kayaking Tours.

Paddling along these rugged islands, you'll want to keep your distance in all but the calmest conditions. Rocky ledges, sandbars, and pebble beaches appear and disappear as the impressive 11-foot tides ebb and flood. The towering cliffs hide little keyhole caves and make great hideouts for harbor seals. You might even see porpoises and more than 273 bird species visit at some point during the year. The islands are fun to paddle around, and it's easy to see how French gunboats hid here to ambush British ships during the French and Indian War.

The journey is not without its challenges, however. Some areas have boat traffic, and fog can reduce visibility to nil. Afternoon sea breezes can pipe up quickly, creating an ugly chop. Landing on the islands is limited, but there are a few places to put ashore and stretch your legs. At the eastern end of the archipelago lies a small islet called Hop; its tidal bar and beach make a good spot for a picnic lunch or to walk around. Long Porcupine and Sheep Porcupine are closed for bird nesting every summer until mid-August, while Burnt Porcupine and Rum Key are private.

Several local tour operators, such as Acadian Boat Tours, can show you the islands without the effort of the kayaking adventure. A popular option for Bar Harbor visitors is walking to Bar Island at low tide. Within an hour and a half of each low tide, a bar connects the island to town. Once called Bar Porcupine Island, it is the westernmost of the Porcupines. Be careful to avoid getting stuck when the tide comes in — you'll either have to call an expensive water taxi or wait nine hours for the tide to ebb again.

Bar Harbor is situated on the eastern side of Maine's famous Mount Desert Island, and there's only one way to get there: the highway that runs through Ellsworth, Maine. If you're flying in, Bangor has international airline service and is a little over an hour's drive away. Bar Harbor has countless inns, bed and breakfasts, and hotels available, but accommodations do book up during busy periods and can be pretty pricy, too. Room rates average between $280 and $400 during the busy summer season. 

It's always good to plan around the best time of year to visit Maine based on what you want to do there. For a paddling trip, July or August are preferred. Daytime highs during these months average in the low 70s Fahrenheit, while water temperatures are in the mid-50s. Also, your chances of encountering fog, wind, and swells are less than in other months. However, the paddle around the Porcupines is considered an intermediate adventure, even on the calmest days. The changeable weather, strong tidal currents, boat traffic, ocean swell, and cold water temperatures make it suitable only for those with experience in sea kayaking.