One Of Rick Steves' Top Beach Hideaways Is A Quiet Greek Gem With Local Vibes And Crystal Waters
For many Americans, traveling to Europe is a one-in-a-lifetime experience and a chance to take in some of the Old World's most famous sights. As travel expert Rick Steves shows, planning your first trip to Europe doesn't have to be all about ticking off crowd-filled landmarks in London, Rome, and Paris. Indeed, some of the most magical parts of the continent are quiet and remote, such as Spetses, a stunning and tranquil Greek island that nevertheless offers a warm welcome and, for a large part of the year, even warmer water in which to take a refreshing dip.
On Steves' website, "The islands of Spetses and Hydra are just a few hours from Athens but feel a world apart." To get to Spetses, international travelers will likely fly into Athens International Airport and take a ferry from the capital, which takes around two hours and drops you right in the center of the island's single large town. The town is listed by the Ephorate of Antiquities of Eastern Attica, with stunning architecture and winding cobbled streets, and, as such, no automobiles are allowed to travel within Spetses. Instead, you can explore on foot, engage with the locals, and, on the limits of town, organize a ride to explore the rest of the island and its beautiful beaches.
Traditional living and glorious beaches on Spetses
The permanent population of the Municipality of Spetses, which covers the whole island as well as several other uninhabited landmasses, numbers only around 3,800. In terms of scale, it is a far cry from Greece's largest islands, such as Crete. Nevertheless, it is a hive of activity, and where you might expect the remote population to be suspicious of outsiders, the residents of Spetses share the reputation of Greeks in general in terms of friendliness toward tourists.
Rick Steves' idealized image of time spent on a "sleeping Greek Isle" invariably involves other people. "While lunch cooks, practice your Greek with new friends over backgammon on the town square," he suggests. "For a smile and a few euros, ride a taxi (a pick-up truck with a bench out back) to your own private beach." According to Steves, on Spetses it is common to find yourself entirely alone on one of the island's beaches, allowing for you to expose more of your skin to the sun than you might otherwise. Temperatures can get very hot in the summer, particularly in July, when the days are also longest, though Steves notes that the waters stay warm as late as October.
There are many beaches to choose from on Spetses, from the luxurious Agia Marina beach an hour's walk from Spetses harbor, to Agios Mamas, an accessible stretch immediately nearby. However, others are less obvious, such as Kouzounos, a local favorite found only by a hidden back just after Agia Marina, and Xilokeriza, a stunning white peddle beach found on the uninhabited side of Spetses.
Authentic local Greek cuisine right on the water
Rick Steves writes eloquently about the lush and decadent atmosphere of dining of Spetses, where traditional Greek cuisine from local restaurants is served with a great deal of hospitality and luxuriously fresh ingredients. Steves has no particular recommendation for places to eat on Spetses, suggesting in his experience they are all much of a muchness: that is, serving delicious Greek dishes with local charm. "Village cuisine in Greece is lip-smacking predictable: fresh seafood, Greek salad, and retsina wine," Steves writes. "Choose a restaurant. Settle the legs of your chair into the sand. Within splashing distance of your table, young Greek men, in swimsuits the size of a rat's hammock, gather around a bucketful of just-caught octopuses."
Liotrivi Restaurant, which overlooks the bay in Spetses town, is one of the island's most famous restaurants, with a wonderful ambience, stunning views, and, of course, classic Greek dishes made with fresh ingredients. Another great choice on the coast is Patralis, a fish tavern that has offered mouthwatering fish dishes and delicious wine to islanders and visitors since 1935. Though as Steves notes, you are likely to get a good meal in any corner of Spetses, and a warm welcome to boot. Looking to do some Greek island-hopping? Here are the five best Greek Islands to visit in summer, according to travelers.