The 'Cultural Mecca Of The South' Is An Underrated City With A Lively Town Square And Creative Energy
There are small, interesting arts towns all over the United States. Colorado has Telluride, with its boutique stores and front-row views of the iconic Rocky Mountains. Over in California is Monterey, a favorite literary spot of any road trip along the state's striking coast. Then there's Taos, the enchanting New Mexico town home to an unbelievable 1,000-year-old world heritage site. In the South, there are several cities that stand out culturally and artistically. New Orleans is the obvious choice, renowned for the iconic food and jazz of its historic French Quarter. However, if you hop on the I-55 northwest of the Big Easy and drive about 350 miles north, you'll reach Oxford, Mississippi, dubbed the "Cultural Mecca of the South" by Lucky Magazine.
With just over 27,000 residents, Oxford is only the 11th largest city in Mississippi. However, the town has a strong reputation for being a cultural hotspot brimming with literature, music, food, and education. The city is perhaps best known as the home of the University of Mississippi and its Ole Miss football team. Vying for this attention is the memory of William Faulkner, the Nobel Prize-winning writer of "The Sound and the Fury," "Light in August," and "Absalom, Absalom!" Faulkner lived in Oxford for much of his life, residing in a Greek Revival home named Rowan Oak.
Oxford's charm extends far beyond its literary past. The city also hosts a vibrant music scene, with local venues continuing the rich traditions of blues, folk, country, and other styles that have shaped the broader Mississippi Delta. Food is a cornerstone of Oxford, too, with everything from indulgent home cooking to elevated Southern cuisine.
Music, literature and the arts in Oxford, Mississippi
Rich in Victorian, Art Deco, and neo-classical architecture, Oxford, Mississippi is one of the best American college towns for a scenic weekend. The city's charm is a blend of history, cultural traditions, and Southern flair. Oxford's heart is in Courthouse Square, which centers around the Lafayette County Courthouse, an imposing neo-classical structure built in 1872. Lining Courthouse Square are shops, restaurants, and bars housed in historic brick buildings — many of them boasting cast iron balconies typical of classic Southern architecture.
Highlights of Courthouse Square include City Grocery, an upscale spot for Southern cuisine; Ajax Diner, an easygoing home cooking joint; Square Books, an independent bookstore spread across three premises; and The Blind Pig, a lively bar with hearty food and 20 beers on tap. These establishments reflect Oxford's ambiance of laidback dining, intellectual interests, and college life.
Unlike many American towns, Oxford does not give way to urban sprawl. Instead, the city quickly becomes green and leafy. A short walk west from Courthouse Square along University Avenue will take you to Dell Drive, the starting point of a wooded trail leading to Rowan Oak, William Faulkner's residence from 1930 until his death in 1962. The University of Mississippi bought the house in 1972 and opened it to the public, displaying the bedrooms, dining room, art gallery, and library, featuring bookshelves Faulkner built himself. Rowan Oak is open year-round and the cash-only admission costs $5.
Sports and college life at the University of Mississippi
The University of Mississippi's buzzing sports scene complements Oxford's intellectual life. Fans bring great energy to basketball at The Pavilion and baseball at Swayze Field, but the biggest spectacle occurs on gameday at the Vaught-Hemingway Stadium, home of the Ole Miss Rebels football team.
For spectators, gameday begins long before the kick-off. The fun starts over at the Grove, a 10-acre space for tailgating that the university calls the "envy of the nation" over the fall, when the football season is in full swing. Fans, students, and alumni gather to enjoy gourmet food, music, and school spirit, with tents and decorations creating an almost festival-like atmosphere. If you intend on visiting, make sure you set up early on Friday — it gets busy quickly. After the food, drinks, and festivities at the Grove, the "Walk of Champions" takes place, with fans lining the path to create a gauntlet for the players as they make their way to the stadium, two hours before kickoff. It is one of college football's biggest spectacles not just in the South but the nation, too.
Those flying into Oxford for gameday have several options. Oxford-University Airport and Tupelo Regional Airport are the nearest airports, but both offer limited services. The most likely connection will be at Memphis International Airport just under 70 miles away.