Families Flock To This Underrated Fairytale Town High In The Swiss Alps With Few Crowds And No Cars
The Swiss Alps are dotted with charming villages that look like they belong in a storybook, their wooden chalets and snow-draped peaks painting a picture of Alpine perfection. Whether it's spring wildflowers bursting into bloom or snowy peaks sparkling under the winter sun, Swiss Alps villages transform into winter wonderlands and magical retreats in every season. With such beauty, though, comes the inevitable downside of crowds. But Braunwald, a lesser-known gem high in the Glarus Alps, has one key feature that keeps the crowds at bay: There are no cars. Accessible only by funicular railway, this charming retreat offers a slower, more whimsical pace of life.
Braunwald is a dream for families, with activities that cater to kids and parents alike. Little ones can embark on pony rides, tackle a forest ropes course, sled down snowy hills, or set off on a scavenger hunt in search of a mischievous gnome. A water playground offers summer fun, while the town's ski resort provides winter thrills. At the heart of the village is the Märchenhotel Braunwald — the "Fairytale Hotel" — which lives up to its name with treasure hunts, bouncy castles, and enchanted play areas. Parents can unwind with wine tastings, spa sessions, and gourmet dining, all set against a backdrop of breathtaking Alpine scenery. Follow the gnome into Braunwald, and you'll find yourself in a world where adventure and relaxation go hand in hand.
How to get around in Braunwald: trains, trails, and horse-drawn carriages
Since Braunwald is car free, the first question visitors often ask is: How do you get there? The answer lies in the colorful Braunwaldbahn, a funicular railway over a century old that climbs the mountainside in just seven minutes. Departing from the town of Linthal, this little train is the only way to reach Braunwald. Travelers flying into Zürich Airport can take a two-hour train ride to Linthal, changing trains at Zürich's main station. Once in Braunwald, shuttle buses run through the village, or for a more fanciful experience, visitors can hop on a horse-drawn carriage.
Winter adventure begins at Skigebiet Braunwald, a family-friendly ski resort with 1.5 miles of ski routes and 10 lifts. Beyond skiing, the resort offers snowshoeing trails, a natural ice rink, and sledding runs that bring out the child in everyone. The best part? No long lift lines. As Tripadvisor reviewer Katharina R said, "The train runs continuously, meaning there are virtually no lines, making access to and from the resort seamless and stress-free every single day."
When the snow melts, the landscape transforms into a lush paradise of rolling green hills and wildflower-filled meadows. While the Matterhorn may be the Stonehenge of Switzerland, Braunwald's Ortstock peak is its own ancient marvel. Hikers will find a wealth of trails, including the nearly 6-mile Braunwald Panoramic Trail, which offers sweeping views of the surrounding peaks. For thrill-seekers, the via ferratas (protected climbing routes with cables) of Braunwald provide an exhilarating climb over the Eggstöcke, a series of rugged mountain peaks. Families can also embark on the Bartli the Dwarf adventure trail, where children follow a series of enchanted landmarks — including a cave, water playground, and dwarf castle — on a scavenger hunt through the forest.
Storybook suites and dining with a view in Braunwald
Braunwald's most magical stay is the Märchenhotel Braunwald. The fairytale experience begins the moment guests arrive at the funicular station, where a whimsically painted shuttle escorts them to the hotel. The grounds are home to bunnies, alpacas, and chickens, and inside, a "fairytale land" play area features suspension bridges, treehouses, and a walk-in dollhouse. For parents, the hotel offers childcare from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m., giving adults the chance to relax in the infinity pool, sip wine on the terrace, or indulge in a quiet, elegant dinner. Rooms range from cozy family suites with bunk beds to sprawling two-story paradise suites complete with in-room slides. A night in a room with a king bed and two bunk beds starts at around $560.
While Märchenhotel offers its own gourmet dining with mountain views, Braunwald also boasts several charming restaurants worth exploring. Restaurant Uhu, a chalet-style eatery, serves hearty Swiss cuisine with a side of breathtaking Alpine scenery. For a classic fondue experience, Nussbüel is the place to go, offering warm, melty cheese paired with rustic soups and local coffee. Ortstockhaus, a cozy mountain hut accessible by an easy trail, is ideal for a lunch stop with excellent cheese and wine selections. Note a couple of common mistakes to avoid while visiting Switzerland: forgetting to bring cash — many restaurants in Braunwald don't accept credit cards — and showing up without a reservation. You can often book reservations online or call ahead.