Greece's Former Capital Is A Cozy Seaside City With Beaches And A Lively Night Scene, Per Rick Steves
Travel writer Rick Steves has strong opinions about Greek attractions, including the best destinations in Greece you can't skip on your trip. On his website, the travel guru says the country's former capital Nafplio is a great gateway to ancient sites like Epidavros and Mycenae. Along with great beaches, the city has a lively evening scene and a "good balance of real life and tourist convenience."
Located in the Peloponnese region, Nafplio is a charming coastal city that seamlessly blends historical significance with modern-day allure. As Greece's capital from 1823 to 1834, the city is known for its neoclassical architecture, bustling waterfront, and golden beaches. Its strategic location is easily accessible via a scenic two-hour drive from Athens, covering approximately 85 miles. For those preferring public transportation, KTEL buses operate regular routes from Athens to Nafplio, with tickets priced around $15 each way.
On arrival, visitors are greeted by a picturesque old town characterized by narrow cobblestone streets and lively squares filled with cafés and wine bars. The city's waterfront promenade offers stunning views of the Bourtzi Fortress, a Venetian castle situated on a small islet and accessible by boat. The imposing Palamidi Fortress, perched atop a hill, rewards those who ascend its 857 steps with panoramic vistas of the city and sea.
Wander through Nafplio's stunning beaches and timeless landmarks
With its prime seaside location, Nafplio is home to some of the most inviting beaches in the Peloponnese. Arvanitia Beach, just a short walk from the town center, is a local favorite with crystal-clear waters and a dramatic cliffside backdrop. Just a few miles out of town, Karathona Beach offers more expansive shores, perfect for a relaxing day under the sun. Many beaches are free to access, though renting a sunbed and umbrella typically costs around $15. With its extensive coastline, the region offers a beach for every preference, and renting a car or moped allows you to venture out and discover your ideal seaside escape.
For those who crave adventure, water sports are in abundance at other popular beaches, like the beautiful Psili Ammos Beach, located in Tolo, a charming fishing village located just 6 miles from Nafplio. Snorkeling excursions reveal vibrant marine life, with rental gear available for approximately $15 per day. Kayak tours along Nafplio's coastline provide a different vantage point of its historic fortresses and cost around $85 for a half-day paddle.
Beyond the beaches, Nafplio is brimming with historical and architectural treasures that has "a certain genteel panache from its glory days," according to Rick Steves. The archeological museum, housed in an 18th-century Venetian building, is home to fascinating artifacts from the Mycenaean Period. Another must-see historical site is the Palamidi Fortress, perched high above the town, offering stunning views of the surrounding area. This castle, built in the early 1700s, offers a glimpse into the town's rich history.
Experience Nafplio's vibrant nightlife and culinary scene
By day, Nafplio exudes a sleepy, old-world charm, but as the sun sets, its waterfront bars and cozy cafés around Syntagma Square come alive with the hum of conversation and live music. The Old Town's winding streets are lined with atmospheric wine bars, bustling taverns, and cozy cocktail lounges.
With coffee shops that turn into bars at night, modern lounges like the Ydragogio Cocktail Bar, and lots of upscale wine bars, Steves notes that this city offers a dynamic mix of laid-back charm and sophisticated nightlife. For wine lovers, Mediterraneo Wine and Deli is a popular bar in town. The waiters will guide you through a great variety of vintages, offering tastings of locally produced varieties.
For a taste of authentic Greek cuisine, visitors should try trahana, a tangy, grainy pasta dish bursting with flavor. Another standout is gkiosa, a traditional dish featuring goat slow-cooked to perfection in a wood-fired stone oven. The meat is served either warm or cold, allowing the natural juices to shine. Pair it with a crisp local beer or a glass of Peloponnesian wine for an authentic taste of Nafplio's rustic culinary heritage. If you're in love with Mediterranean cuisine, consider this wildly underrated and breathtaking island boasting some of the best food in Greece.
Accommodation options in Nafplio range from charming boutique hotels to luxurious seaside resorts. On average, a double room in a mid-range hotel costs around $100 per night. The best time to visit is during the spring and early autumn months, when the weather is milder, and the summer crowds have thinned. Keep heading south to see another picturesque seaside Greek town that Rick Steves calls relaxed and relatively unspoiled.