An Island-Dotted Enclave On France's Mild Atlantic Coast Is Home To Endless Seafood And Surfing

The French Riviera has all the glamour of Cannes and Saint-Tropez, not to mention the sunny resort town of Nice. For those in the know, however, France's Atlantic coast is the place to enjoy summer sunshine without the crowds of the Mediterranean. Nestled between the cities of Nantes and Bordeaux is Charente-Maritime, part of the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region. This stretch of the Atlantic lies just south of the Cote de Lumiere, the Sunshine Coast, so called for having the sunniest days along the French Atlantic.

Charente-Maritime has more than sunshine. Because of its protective islands and natural harbor, it is a favorite spot for water sports. It's also rich in oysters and mussels, making this location a seafood lover's delight. Imagine a day on the waves, then returning to a meal of mussels smoked in a bed of pine needles, with a glass of local wine, bien sûr! 

If this sounds like the place for you, book a flight to the Île de Ré Airport in La Rochelle, the main city in Charente-Maritime. You can also hop on to the TGV high-speed train from Paris. A direct train from Gare Montparnasse will get you to La Rochelle in under three hours.

The old port of La Rochelle is a good place to start exploring the area. It has three historic towers, two of which stand guard at the entry of the old port. A chain was used to link them across the water as a barrier to any unwanted ships. The third was used as a lighthouse and office of port control. In the 16th century, it was a prison for pirates and privateers. Today, visitors can see the graffiti inmates carved into their walls.

This is a pedestrian-friendly area, perfect for walking along the seafront or cruising on a bicycle. It also has small streets to explore that are buzzing with small shops and restaurants, as well as a central market, Marché Central De La Rochelle. You may hear the banter of vendors before you see them! Wednesdays and Saturdays are the big days at the market, which is a great place to sample local products like sweet Charentais melon in the summer and freshly shucked oysters in the fall, winter, and spring. As the French say, any month with the letter "R" is good for eating oysters.

For a true Charente-Maritime experience, you need to get out on the water. Sailing, surfing, and diving are all available and, with the proper gear, possible to do year-round. The two islands, Ile de Ré and Ile d'Oléron, provide the best surfing locations facing the Atlantic. Many surfers skip these islands and head to more popular beaches farther south in Aquitaine, so the waves here aren't too crowded.

Treat yourself to the local specialty, an éclade: whole mussels smoked under a blanket of pine needles. The pine resin enhances the smoke and flavors the shellfish, which are then shucked and slathered with butter on crusty bread. Typically done on the beach, you can cook them yourself or head to La Tremblade. This part of Charente-Maritime is where the river meets the ocean, creating the perfect brackish water for oyster and mussel farming. All along the coast and river banks here, you'll find restaurants offering éclade, such as Aubier Marée, an oyster farm that also cooks up huge batches of smoked shellfish for customers.

If you want to continue exploring the Atlantic coast, Charente-Maritime is an hour and a half from Bordeaux and its world-famous wines. Or, try heading 40 minutes inland to Cognac to sample the classic brandy from this less-touristy region.