Avoid Brazil's Most Crowded Beaches For A Nearby Island Paradise With Quiet Trails, Beaches, And Beauty

Sundown soccer players silhouetted against the bright gold Brazilian evening sky, forest-coated mountains cutting jagged figures over the sun-kissed horizon, and icy caipirinhas poured fresh on the shore. Envisioning the evocative allure of the Brazilian coast might drag your mind straight to the sands of Ipanema or of Copacabana, but there is actually an even better version slightly to the east of Rio's famous shores. Tucked away on a small island close to 'the world's most famous beach' in lively, tropical Rio de Janeiro, the white sands of Ilha Grande provide a quintessentially Brazilian experience without the crowds that make Rio's best beaches some of the busiest on Earth. Its virgin Atlantic forests and sublime sands are wrapped into a car-free national park and there are no large resorts to be seen, making it a tranquil alternative to its famous neighbor. 

Situated within the state of Rio de Janeiro, you should fly into the big city for easy access to the idyllic isle. Five U.S. airports offer direct flights to the tropical metropolis, so you can land from an uninterrupted flight and then check out the best destinations in Rio de Janeiro that most tourists miss before escaping into a Brazil unaltered by tourism at this little-known island paradise. From Rio, you'll have to travel east to take a boat departing from either Mangaratiba, Conceição de Jacareí, or Angra dos Reis. Mangaratiba is the closest to Rio, separated from the city by a two-hour drive or two-and-a-half-hour bus journey through the verdant hills of southern Brazil. From there, you can catch a ferry and watch the mainland slip out of sight on the one-and-a-half-hour ride to the white shores of Ilha Grande. Make sure you've packed enough cash before catching the boat as there are no ATMs on the island.

Just a quick coastal trip away from the heaving crowds and portside pollution of Brazil's big cities, Ilha Grande is encircled by soft sandy beaches and waters so clear you can spot sea turtles gliding beneath the waves. Despite only spanning 74.5 square miles, Ilha Grande has around 100 beaches to choose from. There's an abundance of options for beachgoers on this Brazilian isle, both above and below the sea's surface.

Pull in on the evening ferry to Praia do Abrãao to be hit immediately by the music and laughter that emanates from the popular shoreside cocktail spots. Trek down the shoreline to see where the jungle and the sand collide on Praia do Abrãaozinho. Or, if you're feeling active, visit a secluded beach hailed as one of the most beautiful in Brazil — Praia De Lopes Mendes' surf-friendly shore is separated from the world by the T10 trail, a challenging 4-mile route through the forested mountains. 

Off-shore, you should head underwater for a glimpse of the immense biodiversity that earned Ilha Grande its UNESCO World Heritage Site designation, alongside Paraty, an under-the-radar coastal town in Brazil famed for scenic beaches. Some 900-odd species call the isle's warm waters home, including bottlenose dolphins, gliding rays, and prickly pufferfish. Join a snorkeling tour headed for Lagoa Azul to swim amid thronging shoals of tropical fish or dive with sea turtles at Fenda Jorge Grego, spy crawling octopuses at Parcel da Laje Branca, or explore the sunken Rio de Janeiro steamboat.

Criss-crossing the jagged crags and dense rainforests of Ilha Grande's interior, 16 clearly marked hiking trails guide travelers across the verdant isle. Among the most popular of its dirt-dusted trails is the route to the summit of Pico do Papagaio, the peak that cuts through the skyline from almost every angle on the island. An eight-hour long undertaking, the 6-mile climb is steep and sometimes covered in fallen trees. That shouldn't deter you, though. Join a group guided tour with an experienced rainforest trekker on a night hike up to the island's highlands. You won't remember the challenge once you reach the summit and stand above the canopy, the sands, and the expansive Atlantic Ocean, stained gold by the bright light of the rising sun.

For a less vertiginous foray, follow the route that leads to Cachoeira da Feiticeira. This 5-mile out-and-back trail leads to a 50-foot-high waterfall hidden deep within the forest. Recover from the tough trek in the cooling pool at the bottom of the falls. While you do, keep an eye on the canopy above. There are plenty of native critters concealed in the treetops — black-striped capuchins, raucous howler monkeys, and toco toucans can be spotted from the trails. Kayaking and stand up paddleboarding are also popular activities for adventurous travelers in Ilha Grande. Rent a vessel in the peaceful cove of Saco do Céu or take a late-night paddling tour to see the seas twinkle with the neon light of bioluminescent plankton.