'Venice Of The Pacific' Is A Mysterious Ethereal Ancient Stone City Built Atop A Tropical Coral Reef
The world is filled with ancient sites that beg the question: How could people have built such architectural marvels before the advent of modern tools and technology? Mysteries like the Egyptian pyramids and the Colosseum in Rome are well known, but Nan Madol, a mystifying stone city built nearly 1,000 years ago on the tiny South Pacific island of Temwen, is a hidden gem worth seeing.
The island takes some getting to, as it's part of a collection of far-flung islands in Micronesia, some of which are popular tropical escapes for tourists. According to the National Park Service, Pohnpeian legend has it that the city was built by a pair of magically gifted, seafaring sorcerers named Olosihpa and Olosohpa, who conquered the island in AD 1200. And although the method used to form the building walls has been revealed, some of the basalt pillars weighed 100,000 pounds each, indeed presenting a curious mystery about how they could have been lifted and moved.
The 7-square-mile complex remains a monument to the Saudeleur dynasty from AD 1100 to 1500 and spans 12 artificial islands and 130 buildings, the largest of which served as a royal temple and is protected by 25-foot walls. The rarely visited, ethereal city has 90 inlets and was constructed in a lagoon atop a coral reef, giving the appearance that the metropolis is floating on the water and granting it the apt moniker "Venice of the Pacific."
Explore the site of Nan Madol and uncover its mysteries
Much of Nan Madol is now overgrown with foliage, but an approach to the site can still be managed by boat from neighboring Pohnpei. Aside from the "Channel of the Great Lizard," one of the only remaining manmade canals that transects the whole of the ruins, there's also a walking path that takes you past "Pehi en Kitel," a tomb where the ancient Saudeleur rulers Olosihpa and Olosohpa are said to be buried. A typical excursion around the site starts at the monolithic Nandauwas temple and then snakes around the 12 islands and structures.
Home to potentially over 1,000 residents at its height, the vibrant city included palaces, temples, tombs, and residences, the remains of which are a testament to the complex societal norms of the Pohnpeian people during the over 300 years of the Saudeleur reign. These ruins, and the society they show, demonstrate why the ruins were designated a World Heritage Site. For many tourists, it's probably fun to imagine how the ancient inhabitants lived as the tour drifts past the commoners' homes, the royal residences, and the quarters of the rulers' elite warriors.
A tour booked with operators such as Pohnpei Surf Club will take as long as six hours, so don't plan on doing anything else that day. Pohnpei Surf Club's tour includes a stop at Kepirohi Waterfall, a 66-foot-tall gushing fall that cascades over basalt stones into a refreshing pool. Your tour boat then navigates an area of 6 to 8 miles, steering through an abundant ecosystem of mangroves, rivers, and a sandbar where manta rays swim.
Getting there and preparing for the tour
Unlike larger Polynesian islands in the region, Temwen doesn't have an airport. International flights land on the neighboring island of Pohnpei, which can be reached either by a connecting domestic flight or by ferry. Consider timing your trip in the cooler months, as during the summer, the tides are quite low, making accessing the canals of Nan Madol quite difficult. The best times to visit are from November to April.
You'll want to bring sunscreen and protection from possible rain, swimwear, and extra food. Although longer tours like those with the Pohnpei Surf Club offer snacks such as banana bread, fresh coconuts, and water, other tours are shorter and may not provide anything to eat at all.
Remember that Temwen is off the beaten path, so you won't find any places to stay like these stunning overwater bungalows in Bora Bora, but there are some nearby hotels on Pohnpei. Yvonne's Hotel is a charming hotel that according to Tripadvisor reviews has a welcoming and friendly staff, while Google reviewers praise Island Palms Hotel and Restaurant for its comfortable rooms and tasty breakfasts. Both reside in the northern region of the larger island, under a 10-minute drive from the airport, with plenty of restaurants nearby.