One Of France's 'Most Beautiful Villages' Is A Coastal Paradise With Dreamy Postcard-Worthy Views
Windswept on the eastern tip of the Cotentin peninsula in Normandy, Barfleur is an authentic port village on the English Channel, boasting fresh seafood, a quaint harbor, and a fascinating history. The city was originally a Viking settlement and became Normandy's main port until King Edward III of England burned it to the ground in the 14th century, ushering in the Hundred Years War. In the 1800s, the port as it stands today was rebuilt with charming, low-slung granite buildings. In fact, the village's architectural beauty was lauded with its inclusion in Les Plus Beaux Villages de France, a collection of the 180 most beautiful villages in France.
Barfleur again played an important role in wartime during World War II when it was occupied by the Germans until liberation by the Americans in 1944. Today, in-the-know travelers venture to this remote point on the peninsula to enjoy some of the region's famous mussels, visit the town's historic structures, sail and fish on the English Channel, and head to nearby beaches. Barfleur is a worthy addition to a Normandy road trip, which should also include the rocky fairytale island of Mont St. Michel and Honfleur, the picturesque port town beloved by artists.
The treasures of Barfleur still feel like a secret because the village is blissfully secluded. However, it is still accessible from Paris and other European cities. The Caen–Carpiquet Airport is about an 80-minute drive away, and Paris is a five-hour drive or train ride. The best time to visit Barfleur is between June and September when temperatures hover around the mid-60 degrees Fahrenheit.
What to see and do in Barfleur
The petite size of the port village of Barfleur makes it easy to cover by foot. There are many gorgeous churches you must see in France, and Barfleur's Saint-Nicolas Church is one of them. Occupying a prominent position in the heart of the harbor, Saint-Nicolas was originally built in the 17th century and named for the patron saint of sailors. Its fortress-like stone edifice is surrounded on three sides by water, and the interior is beautifully adorned with Christian artwork and stained glass windows.
Further afield, outdoor activities beckon. For a beach day, drive five minutes south to Beach de Brevy, a 1.5-mile-long sandy crescent lapped by the tranquil English Channel. The calm and picturesque shoreline is perfect for long beach walks, swimming, and lounging in the sand. For more adventurous coastal pursuits, embark on a hike out to the 19th-century Gatteville Lighthouse, the second tallest lighthouse in the country, measuring nearly 250 feet tall. The 3.7-mile round-trip loop hugs the coastline and is popular with hikers and bikers. Once at the lighthouse, visitors can climb the 365 steps to the top for panoramic views of the surrounding coastline.
For a different perspective on Barfleur and the surrounding area, head out to sea from the heart of the port. Barfleur en Mer offers one- or two-hour boat cruises along the scenic Normandy coast, as well as fishing charters, from three-hour trips for regional species like bass and mackerel to six-hour deep-sea adventures fishing near historic shipwrecks.
Where to stay and eat in Barfleur
Spend a few nights in Barfleur to enjoy the town's coastal charms. Due to its small size, there are very few hotel options in the vicinity. However, right on the harbor is the charming Le Mora, a graciously renovated mansion circa 1900. There are four rooms located in the main house that are stylishly decorated, and some even boast prime water views. For families, there is also a private three-level townhouse with two bedrooms. Each morning, an abundant breakfast buffet is served in the mansion, and other amenities include a Finnish sauna.
Along Barfleur's picturesque quay are a number of excellent seafood restaurants for enjoying mussels, the specialty of the region, with a glass of French white wine. In fact, these wild mussels are harvested by boat near Barfleurand have been recognized for their rich flavor. The harborfront Le Safran is a convivial spot for generous portions of 'moules marinieres' (mussels served in a wine, butter, and shallot sauce) and french fries.
Another favorite establishment is the iconic Cafe de France, with its bright red-and-white striped awning and facade overlooking the port. Here, you can savor the local fish of the day or a delicious bowl of mussels and end your meal with sweet crepes for dessert. "We stuck to the regional favorites, moules frites, crevettes rose, and oysters," wrote a Tripadvisor reviewer. "Beautiful view, and not fancy, but overall great!"