One Of Tuscany's Leading Seafood Destinations Is An Affordable Italian City For A Serene Beach Escape

It's no secret that Tuscany has some of Italy's best food, from its big, bold Chianti wines to tender steaks from the region's prized Chianina cattle. Even travel pro Rick Steves said he ate the best meal of his life in Tuscany. Yet many travelers skip over this Tuscan city that delivers some of Italy's best seafood: Livorno.  

It's just an hour's drive from the Amerigo Vespucci Airport in Florence, about 55 miles away. From Rome, the drive is about four hours, at a distance of over 200 miles. Italy's excellent rail system means you can also take the train, which is especially affordable if you have a Eurail Pass. Livorno is also a major port for cruise ships and ferries heading to spots like Sardinia, Corsica, and Barcelona.

Livorno was a sleepy fishing village until the 16th century, when the powerful Medici family decided to make it a free-trading port. Its liberal mercantilism encouraged traders to come from all over the world. Jewish and Muslim merchants built sizeable communities in Livorno, cultivating a cosmopolitan culture still evident today.

The 19th-century Central Market is the perfect place to start a visit to Livorno. Crates of tomatoes, zucchini, and other produce are brought in from the countryside. Arrive early enough, and you'll see the fresh catch hauled into the seafood stalls. 

It's a top spot for many in the culinary world, including Italian food writer, Giulia Scarpaleggia, who visited dozens of markets to write her cookbook, "From the Markets of Tuscany". "My favourite was the market in Livorno, as I have to admit that I love people from Livorno, so open, ironic, and fun," she said in an interview with cookbook author Emiko Davies. She added, "[T]he market is also so colorful, alive, rich, and real!" This is the place for cinque e cinque, a sandwich stuffed with chickpea cake and often served with grilled eggplant, parsley, and garlic. 

Still, seafood is what Livorno is famous for, especially cacciucco, a tomato-based fish stew studded with mussels, shrimp, and whatever seafood is available to put in the pot. Every Livorno native has a favorite place, but Cantina Senese near the port has been a classic osteria making cacciucco for decades. Finish with a ponce Livornese, an espresso with rum and a twist of lemon peel. Many locals recommend Bar Civili as the place to go for a warm ponce on a chilly night. 

Most of Livorno's historical sites are near the port area. The city has two impressive forts — Fortezza Vecchia and Fortezza Nuova — within a 15-minute walk of each other. Fortezza Vecchia, built in the 16th century, encompasses towers from the Middle Ages, when Livorno was part of Genova. As for Fortezza Nuova, the "New Fortress" was erected to ward off pirates during the Medici reign. The crisscrossing canals in this part of the city give it the name Quartiere Venezia. As the sun sets, walk along the checkerboard Terrazza Mascagni just south of the port. On a hot day, this is the perfect place to cool off with a dip at the Bagni Pancaldi seaside resort. Locals get seasonal subscriptions to this beach club, so snagging a spot may be tough in summer. 

Livorno is also a good base for exploring the rest of Tuscany. For example, it's only a half hour drive to Pisa, which has even more to offer than just its famous leaning tower. For something completely different, board a ferry and head to Corsica, the French island with some of Europe's best beaches. Many have overlooked Livorno, but those who stay appreciate the city's rich flavors and culture.