'The Cave Village Of Spain' Is An Extraordinary Marvel Built Right Into A Granite Mountainside

Among the most beautiful white hill towns that Rick Steves says are "steeped in the soul of Spain" and tucked into the rugged landscapes of Andalusia is one of Spain's most extraordinary hidden gems. While this region boasts one of Spain's most romantic cities, Ronda, famed for its captivating cliffside views, unlike other whitewashed villages, Setenil de las Bodegas is built directly into the rock, with homes and businesses seamlessly blending into the overhanging cliffs of a deep river gorge. Commonly known as "the cave village of Spain," this architectural marvel dates back to the time of the Moors, offering a glimpse into centuries of history shaped by its natural surroundings. According to some translations, the city derives its name from seven military assaults on the town, while "Bodegas" is a nod to when the caves were used for wine storage.

Wandering through Setenil's winding streets, you'll find yourself shaded by immense rock formations and overhangs, creating a unique interplay of light and shadow. The most iconic streets, Calle Cuevas del Sol and Calle Cuevas de la Sombra, are lined with restaurants, cafés, and artisanal shops that sell local ham and wine nestled under natural stone ceilings. Beyond its geological wonders, Setenil also boasts medieval history, charming viewpoints, and an unhurried pace that makes it a must-visit destination in southern Spain.

To get here, the nearest major airport is the Málaga-Costa del Sol Airport, approximately 60 miles away. From Málaga, you can rent a car for a scenic 1.5-hour drive through rolling hills and picturesque villages. Alternatively, visitors can take a bus from Málaga to Ronda and continue by bus or taxi for the remaining 12 miles. The best way to explore Setenil is on foot, so wear comfortable walking shoes and prepare for some uphill strolls.

One of the best ways to experience Setenil is by exploring its panoramic viewpoints and historical sites. The Nazarí Castle is a 12th-century Moorish fortress that offers sweeping views of the town's unique cave dwellings and the surrounding Andalusian countryside. For more spectacular views, stroll along Calle San Sebastián, a charming street located nearby with a high vantage point overlooking the town's whitewashed houses. For an even loftier perspective, head to the Torre del Homenaje for another mirador (or lookout), offering breathtaking photo opportunities — especially at sunset. If you're up for a challenge, climb the 93 steps to Mirador del Carmen for one of the most rewarding panoramas in town.

Outdoor enthusiasts can also enjoy hiking trails around the Trejo River Gorge, where the dramatic rock formations provide a stunning natural backdrop. Setenil's scenic landscape makes it an excellent place for leisurely walks, photography, and soaking in the ambiance of this one-of-a-kind village. A picturesque 2-mile trail called the Ruta de Los Molinos, or the Mill Route, meanders along the serene banks of the Arroyo de los Molinos. Beginning in the charming Plaza de Andalucía, the path winds through a landscape rich in history and natural beauty. 

Well-marked and easy to navigate, this gentle route is perfect for families, casual walkers, and beginner hikers seeking a relaxed outdoor adventure amidst stunning Andalusian scenery. As you walk, you'll pass historic water mills that were once used for olive oil production and grinding grains. Some of the most striking features of the route is the Molinilla Waterfall and the Puente de la Calle Triana, a stone bridge that remains one of the most iconic landmarks of Setenil de las Bodegas.

Dining in Setenil de las Bodegas is a unique experience, with many restaurants and tapas bars set inside the town's cave dwellings. For a classic Andalusian meal, visit La Tasca, a cozy eatery known for its crispy, creamy croquettes filled with slow-cooked oxtail and flamenquín (breaded and fried rolled pork loin, stuffed with ham and cheese). Nestled within the rock formations of Setenil de las Bodegas, the restaurant seamlessly blends into the natural cave, with rugged stone walls shaping its intimate interior. Outside, the terrace sits beneath a dramatic rock overhang, offering a unique, sheltered dining experience where the cliffside itself becomes part of the ambiance.

Setenil de las Bodegas also offers one-of-a-kind accommodations that match its extraordinary setting. Book a stay at the Casa Cueva El Arrabal, which offers a distinctive lodging experience by integrating natural cave formations into its design. These cozy accommodations can fit up to five people and feature exposed rock walls. The exterior showcases the traditional white facade typical of Andalusian architecture, which harmoniously blends with the overhanging cliffs above. Guests can enjoy modern amenities while immersing themselves in the unique charm of cave living. The average cost to stay at Casa Cueva El Arrabal is approximately $100 per night, though prices may vary depending on the season and availability. For another cavern attraction, continue northwest to see Spain's first public cave with underground lakes and eclectic formations.