Maine's Coastal Town Near Acadia National Park Is An Artsy Gem For A Quiet Escape With Cozy Lodging
Maine's Acadia has the distinction of being the seventh most visited national park in the country, with nearly four million annual visitors. But Maine is a big place, and there are plenty of other beautiful, quiet spots outside the park if you know where to look. Indeed, even the park itself has less-visited outposts, like the secluded and untouched Isle au Haut. Another example is the beautiful Schoodic Peninsula, part of Acadia but separated from Mount Desert Island by the deep channel known as the Mount Desert Narrows.
The small town of Winter Harbor is considered the gateway to the Schoodic Peninsula and this quieter side of Acadia. Its name comes from the bay it sits on—a small body of water known as a safe harbor during winter because it seldom freezes. Homes, art galleries, restaurants, and work docks line Main Street, which arcs along the pretty waterfront. The surrounding scenery is stunning, and there are plenty of options for visitors to enjoy the park, town, and the Downeast lifestyle.
The town lies about half an hour east of Ellsworth, off U.S. Highway 1. From the international airport in Bangor, it's about an hour and a half drive down east.' If you want to take a day trip to tour the rest of Acadia, you'll have to drive the 30 minutes back to Ellsworth, where you can take the road onto the island. Another option is to hop on the passenger ferry that corrects directly to Bar Harbor.
Sights and sounds of Winter Harbor
Winter Harbor is a typical Maine working port, with numerous lobster boats rumbling along and quiet private homes and businesses lining the rugged coast. On the west side of town is Grindstone Neck, whose rocky beaches offer spectacular vistas of Bar Harbor (which is filled with Victorian charm and artsy shops) and mountain views on Mount Desert Island. From Grindstone Point, you can also get spectacular glimpses of the Winter Harbor Lighthouse and the Schoodic Peninsula in the distance.
Like many little towns on this inspiring coast, Winter Harbor is home to many artists and creators. On Main Street, you'll find whopaints, a gallery of Wendilee Heath O'Brian's landscape, still life, and portrait work. Artisans & Antiques has all sorts of local finds, as does the Winter Harbor 5&10 — an old-school five-and-dime full of local treasures and curios. For a hands-on art experience, check out the exhibits, clubs, and classes at Schoodic Arts for All.
Besides browsing the handful of galleries, Winter Harbor will also keep your belly full. JM Gerrish Cafe and The Bakery have sweets and coffee for breakfast, and options serve lunch and dinner, from The Hotdog Cart to the Seaside Treehouse Grill. If you need fresh seafood for dinner at home (or a quick, authentic Maine lobster roll), check out the Winter Harbor Co-op for fresh-from-the-sea crustaceans, mussels, and fish.
Winter Harbor, the secret to a quiet stay in Acadia
The scenic drive through Acadia National Park's Schoodic Peninsula is not to be missed. In its quiet way, this loop road is a microcosm of the busier Loop Road on Mount Desert Island. The route passes the striking cliffs and granite outcrops at Schoodic Point, plus innumerable quiet coves and pinewood forests. Breathtaking coastlines, lobster boats working traps, and gorgeous sunsets over Mount Desert Island in the distance — this is classic Downeast Maine. The road offers several pull-outs and parking lots to explore the views and the hiking trails. During the summer season, the Island Explorer bus offers free trips around the peninsula to the ferry terminal and Winter Harbor.
If you want to stay on the Schoodic Peninsula, there aren't many options. As you might imagine, camping is one of the best ways to stay on the Schoodic. The Schoodic Woods Campground is inside the park boundaries with tent camping and RV sites. MainStay offers four cozy cottages in town, and several vacation homes or cabins are available on Airbnb and VRBO. The neighboring areas, like Gouldsboro, have more lodging options.
Before heading down, double-check business hours and operating season. Many businesses in town, including restaurants and the Island Explorer bus, are shuttered over winter. Even during the season, small galleries may close while their owners are out painting or exploring, so double-checking when you'd like to visit is essential — especially if you want to meet the creators. For reference, the park's campground season — which corresponds to the town's busy season — is from Memorial Day in May to Columbus Day in October. Like the rest of the Maine coast, Winter Harbor experiences comfortable summers with average highs never exceeding 73 degrees Fahrenheit. But winters are freezing cold, with average lows in January a brutal 16 degrees Fahrenheit.