One Of France's Sunniest Cities On The Riviera Boasts Authentic Charm And Panoramic Coastal Views
With more than 300 days of sunshine a year, the French Riviera is the sunniest part of the country, drawing millions of visitors each year. Cannes and St. Tropez are the glamorous destinations here, made famous by celebrities in their yachts. Yet, it is also an area of picturesque villages and towns steeped in tradition. Known locally as the Cote d'Azur, this stretch of France's Mediterranean coastline extends from the vibrant port city of Marseille to the laid-back beach town of Menton on the Italian border. Sanary-sur-Mer is a particularly charming gem along this coast.
Every Wednesday, a lively market springs up along the port's waters featuring pyramids of asparagus, crates of red tomatoes, bushels of purple lavender, and silvery fish fresh from the sea. It is a scene so idyllic that it was voted the most beautiful market in France a few years ago. If you want to see and taste the pleasures of Sanary-sur-Mer, book a flight to Marseille. Then, rent a car or take a shuttle for a leisurely 45-minute drive towards Toulon, exiting south to Bandol. Keep going until you reach the colorful fishing boats moored at the port of Sanary-sur-Mer.
One of the most beautiful markets in France
Sanary-sur-Mer is built around a small but lovely port. The colorful boats floating in the water are "pointus" or "barquettes", traditional fishing boats of the Provence region. These heritage boats are no longer used in fishing but are preserved as floating monuments to the region's maritime traditions.
From the port, the beating heart of Sanary-sur-Mer lies in its market. The daily market is packed with local produce, cheese, and other food. For fish, don't shop on Monday. The seafood market is only open from Tuesday to Sunday. On Wednesday, the market expands into the port to include household linens, kitchen items, clothing, and local crafts. Markets open early, usually around 8:30 in the morning and stalls start to close at 1 p.m. If you're a late riser, don't worry. During the summer, Sanary-sur-Mer has a lively night market for arts and crafts that stretches long into the evening.
Beyond the market, wander the alleyways to peek into the local shops and visit historical sites. The fortified Tower of Sanary has a commanding view of the port but only allows 15 people up at a time. The Romanesque Church of Saint Nazarie is also worth a visit, especially for concerts featuring its historic organ. The beach is another reason many people come to Sanary-sur-Mer. Sun-seekers head to Plage Dorée or Golden Beach, the largest with bathroom facilities and restaurants. There are also smaller beaches including the clear waters of La Gorgette and the pebbly beach cove of Bay of Cousse.
A base for exploring the Cote D'Azur
Sanary-sur-Mer has sunshine year-round, but it's most enjoyable in May, June, and September. In early May, for example, Sanary-sur-Mer dresses up in pink to celebrate the Rosé Wine festival, Just Rosé. The summer months of July and August are also nice, but be warned. It does get crowded with Parisians flocking here for beach holidays. Sanary-sur-Mer also makes a good base for exploring the Cote d'Azur. It's a 30-minute drive to the nearby cliff-side town of Cassis, the gateway to the Calanques National Park. Hiking in this area offers stunning sea views.
Where to stay depends on what you want to do in Sanary. If you want to be in the middle of all the market action, Hotel de la Tour is at the center of the port, steps away from the market and historical sites. Its popular restaurant also specializes in fresh seafood, including bouillabaisse, the traditional fish soup of Provence, though it must be ordered ahead of time. If you're hoping to luxuriate on the beach, La Farandole is right on the sands of La Gorguette Beach. Some rooms have private decks and guests can book time at the hotel spa with a hammam and plunge pools. So, you can soak in the glamour of the French Riviera without leaving the idyll of Sanary-sur-Mer.