France's Extraordinarily Picturesque Port Town Is A Colorful Creative Gem Beloved By Artists
Ensconced on the southern bank where the English Channel meets the Seine River, Honfleur is a centuries-old harbor that has long inspired painters such as Claude Monet and Eugène Boudin. By the 18th century, Honfleur's port was an important global trading center in Europe, and the city's wealth is evidenced in its beautiful half-timbered residences lining the harbor and grand churches. In the 19th century, artists were drawn to the city, where they painted the harbor and the Seine estuary "en plein air," a movement of painting outdoors that would become Impressionism. Today, this charming Normandy destination draws travelers who want to explore the cobblestone passageways, admire Impressionist art, visit some of France's oldest churches, and savor fresh seafood.
Honfleur is located two and a half hours northwest of Paris via car, and can also be reached by train or bus. If you are flying from elsewhere in Europe, the nearest airport is Deauville–Normandie Airport, a 15-minute drive from Honfleur. The port city is also an hour's drive west of Rouen, which is home to travel guru Rick Steves' favorite Gothic cathedral, The Rouen Cathedral. The best time to visit Honfleur is between May and August when temperatures range between 60 and 72 degrees Fahrenheit. It's the perfect weather for exploring the quaint town, as well as visiting nearby beaches or embarking on boat trips. Honfleur is an excellent first stop or base for a road trip through Normandy, which should also include the D-Day Landing Beaches, the seaside resort of Deauville, and the fairytale Mont St. Michel, perched on a rocky island.
What to see and do in Honfleur
Relish in the old-world beauty of the harbor by wandering around the heartbeat of Honfleur: Vieux Bassin. Here, you can see the lovely wood-beamed residences where Honfleur's wealthiest merchants once lived that are now bustling waterfront restaurants, boutiques, and galleries. Come summer, the waterfront is lined by vessels, from antique sailboats to sleek super yachts. A short stroll from the Vieux Bassin will bring you to Église Saint-Catherine. While France has many gorgeous churches, this is the oldest wooden church in the country and dates to the 15th century. The impressive wooden-beam structure resembles the hull of a ship and is illuminated by colorful stained glass windows.
Another short walk from the church will bring you to the Musée Eugène Boudin, a small museum dedicated to the Impressionist artist Eugène Boudin, who was born in Honfleur and mentored Claude Monet. On the invitation of Boudin, Monet visited Honfleur and painted its beautiful harbor and surrounding coastline. The museum features masterpieces by Boudin, as well as other renowned artists inspired by Honfleur. The city also has a thriving contemporary art scene with galleries throughout the port, such as Bel-Air Fine Art and Galeries Bartoux Normandy. After you've thoroughly explored the town, stroll to Plage du Butin, the expansive beach that's perfect for swimming, sailing, and long beach walks. The buildings of Le Havre, the industrial French port city, rise in the distance.
Where to stay and eat
Honfleur is the perfect weekend escape from Paris or a charming stop on a longer Normandy road trip. The best place to overnight is the luxurious Ferme Saint Siméon, a property cocooned between the port and the beach. The 17th-century farmhouse inn was a gathering place for artists during the 19th century. Today you can even sleep in the studios where famous artists, including Claude Monet and Jean-Baptiste-Camille Corot, painted and laid their heads. The 35 rooms and suites are elegant and cozy, with original wood beams. Some even boast private hammams and panoramic water views. The hotel houses the fine dining restaurant Les Impressionnistes and lively La Boucane bistro, as well as a serene spa. Guests rave about the gracious service, excellent dining, and old-world touches, like the horse-drawn carriage that can bring you into town.
In Honfleur, you will find bustling patio after patio serving up ultra-fresh seafood along the Vieux Bassin. However, some of the best restaurants are hidden along the cobblestoned streets leading away from the port. For lunch or dinner, reserve a table at L'Absinthe, a delicious seafood restaurant featuring bouillabaisse, oysters, and more in a classic Norman dining room. For moules meuniere, visit the charming L'Envie, a convivial eatery with a bright red facade and chalkboard announcing the daily specials. And travelers with a sweet tooth can't miss a stop at La Maison du Caramel, a quaint candy shop with a wide variety of homemade caramels.