The Bustling North African City That 'Makes The Star Wars Cantina Scene Look Bland' Per Rick Steves

When it comes to its striking travel destinations, Morocco is no stranger to "Star Wars" comparisons. Although neighboring North African country Tunisia often stands out as one of the most epic "Star Wars" filming locations, Morocco's sweeping sand dunes, bustling souks, and traditional desert towns feel like the natural home of Jedi, Sith, and strange alien civilizations. And nowhere in Morocco gives off bigger Tatooine vibes than the vibrant port town of Tangier.

Tangier has had a reputation as a destination for sin, debauchery, and cultural voyeurism for decades, even centuries. Even today, when so many eclectic, alternative destinations have had their hard edges sanded down by mass tourism, Tangier "makes the Star Wars cantina scene look bland", according to legendary travel journalist Rick Steves.

For centuries, Tangier has stood as the first entry point in Africa from Europe. As a result, it has a unique and exciting blend of influences and cultures. It has also always stood slightly apart from both continents, a stranger to both Europe and North Africa. This liminality made it a coveted destination for anyone looking to escape from real life during the 20th century and is what makes it such an off-beat, bizarre, and attractive destination today for travelers seeking curious, under-the-radar experiences.

From ancient gods to Beat poets

From the very beginning, Tangier has been a destination shrouded in myth and constantly in flux. It has been mentioned in the Greek god Hercules' lore, and the city changed hands countless times over the years, ruled by Carthage, Rome, Byzantium, the Umayyads, Spain, France, Portugal, and even England. The city has weathered this chaotic history to create an incredible balance of competing cultures and communities, with an almost obscenely laid-back and relaxed attitude and atmosphere.

This liberal ambiance made it a haven for Beat poets like Paul Bowles and William Burroughs in the 1950s, as well as a place where communities who were unwelcome elsewhere could live freely. As an International Zone during the 20th century, it developed a reputation as a place where spies, crooks, gamblers, writers, and various oppressed communities could live, drink, and party as they pleased. While this atmosphere of total vice and debauchery has passed, Tangier still has a penchant for the unusual and the exciting and is up there with Agadir as one of the best places to go to avoid tourist crowds in Morocco.

Nowhere is this better expressed than in the tangled streets of the medina, Tangier's Old Town. Moroccan medinas can be hard to manage with the tiny alleyways, crowds, and loud noises. But Tangier's small size means that its souk is far easier to navigate, making it a less stressful place to wander than the equivalent in Marrakesh, Fez, or Casablanca. In fact, exploring the medina in Tangier is one of the most pleasant ways to spend an afternoon, browsing traditional crafts in busy souks or enjoying a mint tea amidst the haze of shisha smoke in an old-style cafe. Don't miss a visit to the Cinematheque de Tanger, a retro cinema with a lovely cafe that buzzes with young locals day and night.

A charming, uncrowded oasis of ancient history and modern cuisine

It would be easy to get carried away with Tangier's remarkable medley of laissez-faire attitudes and eccentric weirdness. But it actually offers a more gentle immersion into Morocco than the madness of Marrakesh or the booming L.A. vibes of Casablanca and has an allure and a peaceful charm that makes it perfect for a restful vacation as well. Despite its proximity to Spain, it is surprisingly free of tourists –which baffles Rick Steves – and is rarely included on Moroccan tourist itineraries. This means that you get to enjoy the gorgeous sea views and the picturesque city ramparts in peace.

From Moorish tiles in the Kasbah to the Museum of Mediterranean Cultures, there's plenty on offer for history lovers. It is also worth exploring St. Andrew's, an Anglican church with a curiously eccentric mix of high Protestantism and Arabic Islamic art. For a taste of Tangier's more infamous past, head to the Petit Socco, a delightfully pretty square inside the medina that was once notorious as a hub of narcotics, prostitution, and crime.

Tangier has also developed something of a foodie reputation in the last few years, with classic spots like the century-old Cafe Hafa and Restaurant Bachir rubbing shoulders with more luxurious offerings like Restaurant Antartique and Omega 3. It is also a wonderful spot for dinner with a view, and the terraces at La Boqueria and La Terrasse De Dar El Kasbah are particularly beautiful.

Recommended