The World's Oldest Vegetarian Restaurant Is A Mouth-Watering European Gem Even Meat-Eaters Love

If Swiss cuisine conjures up visions of gooey cheese fondue or veal bathed in cream sauce, it may surprise you that the world's oldest vegetarian restaurant is in the Swiss city of Zurich. Switzerland in the 19th century was at the forefront of a wellness trend with a burgeoning Alpine spa industry when Ambrosius Hiltl was prescribed a strict vegetarian diet to control his arthritis in 1898. At that time, the only vegetarian place in town was derisively nicknamed the "root bunker" by locals and its customers were dismissed as "grass eaters." However, Ambrosius was undeterred and was so impressed by the food, he not only married the vegetarian chef cooking his meals, he bought the whole restaurant to found Haus Hiltl — now operating for more than 120 years according to the Guinness World Book of Records.  

Today, Haus Hiltl is one of Zurich's culinary stars with five locations plus Switzerland's first-ever vegetarian "butcher shop" and a Hiltl Academy for vegetarian innovation. However, the restaurant wasn't always popular. "It was very quiet well into the 1930s and did poorly," admits Rolf Hiltl, the great-grandson of Ambrosius Hiltl and current owner of Haus Hiltl, in an interview with Switzerland Tourism. "Our patron books date back to the 1940s. Back then, many Nobel prize winners, pianists, and conductors visited," he said. "Forward thinkers grasped the concept, in my opinion. The general population did not understand."

Today, Haus Hiltl is a true trendsetter and the flagship restaurant is located a 10-minute walk from Zurich's main train station. The venue is light and airy with a terrace for eating al fresco on warm summer days. On the ground floor is an impressive array of around 100 vegetarian and vegan dishes are served buffet-style. Upstairs, diners can opt for a more private and quiet ambiance, ordering from the à la carte menu, including Swiss dishes like Zurich-style geschnetzeltes. Traditionally a dish of thin veal slices cooked with white wine, cream, and mushrooms, Hiltl's signature version is made with seitan instead of meat with the possibility of vegan whipped cream, served with a traditional crispy rösti, or shredded potato cake.

Hiltl prides itself on appealing to vegetable and meat lovers, claiming that only 20% of customers consider themselves vegetarians. Even Hilt's current owner, Rolf Hiltl admits to indulging in the occasional meaty meal. "I am a flexitarian. That isn't always popular. But it is what it is. I might become vegetarian one day. I often eat vegetarian meals." He explained to Switzerland Tourism, "Our motto is "healthy enjoyment," not "mission." We have never lobbied and never will. We are restauranteurs and we have to get people excited. That is our mission."

Zurich is known for being one of Europe's most expensive places to eat. So, diners in this city are particularly picky about the quality of food they spend their money on. Haus Hiltl's menu isn't cheap. It does, however, offer value in Zurich. Besides the à la carte menu, diners can pay for buffet dishes by weight. A popular brunch option includes two drinks (as well as a glass of prosecco) and the all-you-can-eat buffet. There are also discounted rates for kid's menu items. Weekday brunches are cheaper than weekends. If you plan to go, be sure to make reservations as Haus Hiltl can be quite crowded.  

Traveller Emma Marshall was pleasantly surprised at the amount and quality of food at Hiltl. "You shouldn't be put off by the fact it's vegetarian — the food here is absolutely top notch — or that on face value it seems rather pricey. But when you include drinks, and the fact that you're getting a three-course meal, you're getting a really great deal, especially as Zurich goes," she wrote in her blog, Travel on a Time Budget. "When I am back, I'll be reserving a table at Haus Hiltl for my brunch in Zurich." Perhaps it's no surprise that healthy eating has gained such a following in Zurich considering it has the best air quality of any major city in the world. Furthermore, the blue waters of Lake Zurich have long been home to spas, such as the polar plunge pools of Eden au Lac. Hiltl simply added delicious vegetarian meals to the menu.