An Uncrowded Stretch Of North Carolina Sand With Roaming Horses Offers A Pristine Outer Banks Escape

For a wide swath of the United States, going to the beach means a trip to North Carolina's beautiful Outer Banks. Many families have staked out their favorite islands and towns to visit year after year: the artsy beach town of Kitty Hawk and the chic getaway of Nags Head, just to name a few. It's easy to see why these thin islands, stretching from the Virginia border and jutting out to Cape Hatteras, appeal to many visitors. The seashell-lined beaches, dramatic windswept dunes, and inviting surf draw in those longing for a seaside escape.

But visiting the Outer Banks, or OBX, as the locals say, can be tricky — especially if you're looking for solitude. On busy summer weekends, traffic can back up for miles. Indeed, only two roads and one ferry can take you to the Outer Banks: Highway 158 to Kitty Hawk, Highway 64 to Nags Head, and ferries that run from Ocracoke Island on the south end of the Banks. Once there, all the islands are connected by the two-lane blacktop known as State Highway 12. But some OBX towns are off the beaten track enough to offer a quieter escape. One such town is Carova Beach, just south of the Virginia state line.

Getting to Carova Beach requires a little planning and a unique beach adventure, but it's worth it. The town lies on the very north end of OBX beyond the town of Corolla. But your rental Toyota probably won't make it — to access this secret getaway, you need a four-wheel-drive vehicle and the skills to use it on soft sand. In other words, you can't drive your Corolla beyond Corolla.

Carova Beach lies some 10 miles north of Corolla, but there is no paved road to get there — only the broad sand beach called the "North Beach Access Road." It takes about half an hour to cover those mere 10 miles since you can't move very fast on the soft surface. The sand streets of the town all end at the beach, with private homes dotting the island. Yards are big, but don't expect lawns — drifting sand is the most common landscape feature in Carova.

The northern Outer Banks is known for its population of wild horses. These wild mustangs were likely introduced to the New World on Spanish ships in the 1500s. They are descendants of shipwreck survivors; the Outer Banks is known as the Graveyard of the Atlantic due to the treacherous shoals and rapidly changing weather conditions. Today, the horses wander the sandy streets and dunes, munching on sea oats and other local vegetation. While the horses may appear mild-mannered, they are entirely wild, and you'll often see stallions fighting for the affection of a filly. Visitors are reminded to keep their distance from all horses — for their safety and your own.

Once you're in the 4WD area of Carova, there's not much other than beach, dunes, and houses. Past the state line lies Virginia's False Cape State Park. The park is not accessible by car, so the only way in is by foot, bike, buggy, or boat. The main entrance is from the north, coming out of Back Bay National Wildlife Refuge near Sandbridge, Virginia. However, several sandy foot trails enter the park from its southern boundary along the state line, including one that takes you to a 1727 survey marker denoting the end of North Carolina and the beginning of Virginia.

Resorts, inns, and bed and breakfasts are left behind when Highway 12 ends. If you want to stay in Carova Beach, rent a vacation property from a site like VRBO or Airbnb. There are many to choose from, but you'll still need that four-by-four and some beach driving know-how to get there. Compared to other walkable OBX towns with dining and shopping, like Ocracoke Village with its New England charm, Carova Beach is a more secluded and remote getaway with no shops or restaurants.

Navigating to and around the Carova 4WD area isn't something to be taken lightly. Cars regularly get stuck in the sand, sometimes due to inappropriate vehicle choices, poor technique, or just plain bad luck. Getting your tire pressure right and driving slowly with your 4WD engaged are the keys to not sinking in, as are having the tools to get yourself unstuck should it happen anyway. Currituck County has implemented a parking permit system for those wanting to park on the beach between the last Saturday in April and the first Saturday in October. They only issue 300 permits every week; the cost is $50 per week at the time of writing, and you can get yours through the county website. If you're renting a property in the area, you should be provided with parking permits from the owner.

If you've got the right wheels and are ready for a beach vacation like no other, the only question left is when to book your trip. The Outer Banks are traditionally considered a summer destination, but many folks have discovered its beauty during the shoulder seasons or over the holidays. Summers can be hot, with average highs in the upper 80s, but the steady sea breeze cools things down nicely. Hurricanes affect the Outer Banks occasionally, with the peak of activity occurring between mid-August and mid-October, so read up on weather warnings to stay on top of them. Winters can be cold, and snow and powerful Nor'easters are not uncommon.