Situated Between Iceland And Scotland Are Underground, Art-Filled Tunnels Connecting Dreamy Islands

In "No Time to Die," James Bond, played by Daniel Craig, stands on the fictional Poison Island moments before his death while overlooking the desolate volcanic mountains and the endless ocean surrounding him. In real life, Poison Island is played by Kalosy, one of the Faroe Islands, also known as Bond's final resting place. In March 2022, the local villagers erected a tombstone to commemorate the most legendary spy in cinema. 

Like Canada's gorgeous Sable Island in Nova Scotia, the Faroe Islands can feel like the end of the world. The self-governing nation, comprised of 18 major islands (and countless smaller ones) in the northern Atlantic, is technically a part of Denmark. Its unique geological makeup of basalt, volcanic clay, and sandstone covered by moss gives the islands their stark, rugged vibe. Though ferry services and bridges connect the islands, the 53,000 Faroe Islands residents were at the mercy of brutal winds and intense fog, dictating their ability to travel. The unpredictable Nordic weather gave the Faroe Islands the reputation as "The Land of Maybe." Since the 1960s, the Faroese government started constructing tunnels through fjords, mountains, hills, and the ocean to make traveling between the islands more efficient. 

However, the bridges were far from perfect. Exasperated by his long commute to Tórshavn, the capital city of the Faroese Islands on the southern tip of Streymoy, a student from Eysturoy wrote to the local newspaper in 1999. He suggested the Faroese government build a tunnel under the Tangafjørður Strait — which it did. In December 2020, the Eysturoy Tunnel opened. It's the longest subsea tunnel in the world and the only one filled with music and art.

Of all the tunnels of the Faroe Islands, Eysturoy Tunnel takes the crown as an architectural marvel — it's a nearly 7-mile-long, three-branch subsea tunnel with a roundabout that connects Streymoy to Eysturoy, Faroe Island's largest and second-largest islands. It took four years and multiple teams of engineers and geologists working 24 hours a day to complete it. Every day, more than 6,000 vehicles travel through the tunnel, allowing people to go to work and access services in Torshavn.

In addition to improving people's commute time, the Faroe government also commissioned local creatives to make the mundane drive through the tunnel more engaging. Faroese musician Jens L. Thomsen created an ambient soundscape inspired by foreign surroundings and music-making in non-conventional spaces. You can tune into the FM station before entering the tunnel to enjoy the eight-minute track — about the time it takes to go through the tunnel. The commute time to and from the capital is a remarkable improvement from what used to take more than an hour.

The roundabout in the tunnel that branches off towards Strendur and Rókin is a tourist attraction in its own right. It's a massive pillar shaped like a jellyfish. At 236 feet below the sea, it's the planet's first and only underwater roundabout. Faroese artist Tróndur Patursson created a 262-foot steel sculpture in the roundabout's central column. It shows silhouettes of life-size dancers holding hands, participating in a traditional Faroese dance. The installation is lit up by vibrant lights from the pillar, creating a mesmerizing effect as people drive around the circle.

Besides visiting James Bond's final resting place on Kalsoy, another must-do on the Faroe Islands is visiting the remote village of Gásadalur on Vagar. Until 2004, you could only access it by hiking, but now, the village is accessible through a mountain tunnel. It has a far-flung atmosphere — a 25-house village surrounded by two mountains, which are over 2,000 feet tall. A short walk away is the picture-perfect Múlafossur waterfall, plummeting 98 feet into the ocean. Stay overnight at a cottage nearby, and you might be able to see the northern lights if you time your visit between November and February.

Mykines is an island on the westernmost part of the Faroe Islands. It only has a population of fewer than 30 people, and one of the few traces of human activities is the red-roofed Mykines Holmur Lighthouse, perched at the edge of this desolate land. Mykines can only be accessed by a ferry. However, it is weather-dependent, so check the schedule to avoid disappointment. Besides the astounding views, the main attraction for Mykines is birdwatching. Specifically, it's one of the few spots, other than Grand Manan Island in New Brunswick, Canada, where you can get up and personal with the adorably clownish puffins.

Check out the tiny but quaint capital of Tórshavn, too, when you visit the Faroe Islands. Walk through the historic district to see charming houses with straw-covered roofs along tiny cobblestoned alleys and immerse yourself in Viking history. The restaurants Barbara and Etika promise delicious, well-cooked seafood dishes, so be sure to stop there on your travels. For more Nordic adventures, visit Akureyri, Iceland's ethereal, second-largest city.