The Affordable Secret Town In Baja Sur That's A Beachy Oasis Surrounded By Desert

Above the charming Baja California Sur town of Mulegé (pronounced Moo-la-hay) sits a whitewashed building that looks like a fortress. Now it is the Museo Histórico de Mulegé (Mulegé Historical Museum), but 100 years ago it was the unique "Ex Carcel sin Puertas," the prison without doors.

The prison was progressive in its philosophy: male prisoners were sent out into the town during the day to work. (I was told when I visited that female prisoners remained on-site to clean and do laundry, whomp whomp.) In the evening, the warden would blow into a conch shell, signaling it was time to return to the imposing hilltop edifice for roll call and to sleep. They didn't have to worry much about prison escapes. Outside the forested enclave of town is the watery expanse of the Gulf of California, and on the other side stretches the Baja California desert. There simply was nowhere to go.

Now the Mexican Federal Highway 1 runs through the desert to aid those who want to reach Mulegé or eventually leave, but that feeling of seclusion from the outside world remains. It's part of the magic of this special town, and one of the reasons it is still a fairly affordable place to visit. You can easily find lodging at this coastal Baja Sur spot for less than $100 a night and meals for $15.

Many of the things to do in Mulegé are free or inexpensive, like walking around to soak up the character of the town or exploring the lush greenery along the river. The old prison now welcomes guests (for a small donation), showcasing a handful of artifacts from the town's history, some works of art and handicrafts, and the chance to wander around the small complex and be grateful you won't ever have to serve time in the cramped stone cells.

The official name of the town is Heroica Mulegé, a nod to the heroism of the people who defended their home during the Mexican-American War. The town gates are emblazoned with the name and make for a cool (and free!) photo op.

Just under a mile from town is the charming Misión Santa Rosalía de Mulegé. The mission, which was built in 1766 and updated several times since then, operated until 1826. The chapel is open to visit, although tourists should leave a donation in the box before poking around some of the other rooms that have been restored. There isn't a ton of interpretive information, but the architecture is interesting.

No one would fault you if you spent your entire visit to Mulegé exploring its history, but you would be missing out on some incredible natural beauty. Behind the mission is a somewhat rickety stairway to a lookout point. Try to time your visit for sunset, when the sky fills with birds coming home to roost in the surrounding treetops. They swoop and swarm in an impressive display that you won't want to miss. Have your camera ready.

Combining history and natural beauty are the cave paintings just northeast of the town at San Borjitas. Following a bumpy ride and a hike, visitors are greeted with the sight of primitive figures decorating the high stone walls. It is recommended to enlist the help of a local guide, as the way is not well-marked and the way requires a sturdy, high-clearance vehicle.

Of course, you won't want to miss out on beach time on a trip to Mexico. Head to Bahía Concepción for crystal-clear water in the protected bay. Outfitters are available to take you out in a boat when the water is calm. However, if you want to save your cash, sticking near the shore to swim or paddle a kayak is also a wonderful way to while away a few hours. There are a few options for accommodations in and around town if you prefer to go the regular hotel or motel route, but if you want to stay right on the beach, there are campsites that will have you waking to the sound of crashing waves. For more relaxing Mexican beaches and camping, check out our experience glamping on Mexico's Isla Espiritu Santo.