A Michelin-Starred LGBTQ+ Chef Runs This Scenic Midwest Log Cabin Inn With A Year-Long Waitlist
Michigan's Upper Peninsula offers a rare mix of rugged beauty and captivating adventure. The small town of St. Ignace is a paradise for art festivals and shipwreck diving as a gateway to this remote region, while islands off the peninsula promise an idyllic winter vacation. Deeper inland lies the Hiawatha National Forest, where wildlife like black bears and elk roam freely. Its tranquil lakes mirror the fiery hues of sugar maples in the fall, creating a storybook scene.
Tucked within the remote expanse of the Hiawatha National Forest is the Milkweed Inn, a one-of-a-kind culinary retreat. In 2019, the acclaimed chef with a Michelin-starred Chicago restaurant, Lane Regan (previously known as Iliana), purchased this four-bedroom lodge with their wife, Anna. Together, they transformed it into a bed and breakfast, offering an unparalleled experience. Depending on the time of year, the Milkweed Inn can accommodate up to 12 guests for a retreat filled with extraordinary meals, intimate camaraderie, and rustic luxury. However, you might want to get on the waitlist, as the hotel is often booked out a year in advance for this exclusive getaway.
From farm to forest: The story behind the Milkweed Inn
Chef Regan's journey to the Milkweed Inn began far from the forest. Raised on an Indiana farm, Regan's culinary roots are steeped in rural simplicity. "In a sense, I'm trying to come full circle and embrace that childhood feeling of comfort," Regan shares with Lavender Magazine. For the chef, this retreat is more than an escape — it's a reflection of personal growth, as documented in their critically acclaimed memoir, "Burn the Place," which chronicles their identity as a queer chef, struggles with addiction, and love of food.
The Milkweed Inn offers a sensory experience in the middle of nowhere. This off-the-grid lodge is enveloped by towering pines, maples, and birches, with the gentle flow of a nearby river. The journey here alone highlights its remoteness, as the closest access to civilization is a gas station 45 minutes away. Connectivity is practically nonexistent, with no Wi-Fi and spotty cell service. Guests can stay in an intimate bedroom inside the lodge, a retro airstream trailer, or a wall tent. The surrounding forest is a vibrant ecosystem, teeming with wildlife and bursting with colors in every season. It's a place where the modern world feels miles away, and the concept of luxury is redefined by the hum of cicadas, the scent of the trees, and elegant meals crafted in the heart of the wilderness.
What to expect during a stay
At the Milkweed Inn, food takes center stage. A weekend stay includes a total of five exquisite meals, two snack soirées, drinks, transportation, and accommodations. Guests begin with a family-style Friday dinner followed by s'mores next to a fire. The pinnacle of the weekend is Saturday night's 10- to 14-course tasting menu, with dishes like moose garum and marinated white beans, wild rice risotto adorned with milkweed flowers, and grilled venison drizzled in a blackberry sauce. Sunday brunch rounds out the culinary adventure.
Foraging plays a vital role in Regan's cooking philosophy, a skill they learned at age five. Regan said in the Chicago Review of Books, "The foraging inspires me to cook." From mushrooms plucked from the nearby forest to leaves and flowers that garnish each plate, their field-to-table approach connects the meal to its surroundings. In Regan's "Fieldwork: A Forager's Memoir," the chef centers around foraging and celebrating the harmony between nature and cuisine.
Beyond the food, Milkweed Inn offers quiet moments and outdoor exploration. Guests can kayak along the river, wander the woods, sip wine by the fire, or simply enjoy thoughtful conversation. While booking your spot is not as simple as visiting Anthony Bourdain's favorite restaurant in Paris, there are some things to note as you plan. Guests must be at least 15 years old, and the weekend experience costs between $2,000 to $4,500 for two people.