One Of Italy's Best Hill Towns Is A Crowd-Free Gem Overlooking A Big Canyon, Per Rick Steves
Many travelers who have their hearts set on Europe surely have Italy close to the top of their bucket list. The country, especially the capital city of Rome, is one of the most popular places in the world, and it's easy to see why. With so much art, culture, food, nightlife, and history to experience in Italy, even the off-season of winter can still be busy. That's why travel expert Rick Steves recommends visitors get out of their comfort zone and head to some of the less touristy towns in Italy, like Civita di Bagnoregio. The once "dying" town is a great day trip from Rome, which is the best place to start your Italian vacation.
Like many towns in Italy, Civita di Bagnoregio dates back to the Etruscans over 2,500 years ago, and many parts of the town still retain some of its architecture from medieval times. It is located in the region of Lazio, about 80 miles north of Rome. Although it's fairly close to the capital city, it can be somewhat difficult to get to without a car (and even then, you would need to park outside the city and walk over a pedestrian bridge to get there). Sometimes, the nearest parking can be closed to visitors on particularly busy days, as well. Tourists can also opt to take the train from Rome to the nearby Orvieto and then catch a bus to Civita di Bagnoregio.
Civita di Bagnoregio has turned into a tourist spot
Plenty of amazing destinations make for great day trips from Rome by train, and Civita di Bagnoregio is a once-sleepy town that almost entirely caters to tourists these days. Steves mentions on his website, "this stunning little gem has escaped the modern age mostly because of topography." The town itself is high up on a hill, and the only way into the actual town is on foot. Because of its isolated nature, the town is bucolic and beautiful, as if it were almost frozen in time.
Civita di Bagnoregio has been colloquially labeled as "dying" because of its drastic decrease in the population. After an earthquake in the 1700s, most of the people started moving to neighboring towns, and naturally, as the residents got older, they passed away. The town's population decreased to a point where there were only about 12 residents as of 2020 (via CNN). The pedestrian bridge, which is perched over a canyon, has been destroyed and rebuilt over the years, adding to the town's isolation and dwindling numbers. Now that Civita di Bagnoregio is mostly for tourists to enjoy, the town also charges a couple of euros for guests to enter.
Even though there seems to be a burgeoning revival in the town, Steves notes that there aren't a lot of major attractions apart from just walking around the town and experiencing Italian history and culture. This means there aren't the same crowds of people as in other cities, and there are a few things you should do while you're there. It's also close to other tourist spots like Orvieto and Viterbo if you are looking to stay in the area for a few days.
Exploring the town of Civita di Bagnoregio
Naturally, the main thing to do in Civita di Bagnoregio is to walk over its pedestrian bridge from the neighboring town, called (perhaps confusingly) Bagnoregio. The bridge is located near Caffe Belvedere in Bagnoregio, which has a stunning view of the canyon. At about 1,000 feet long, the overpass takes around 15 to 20 minutes to cross. People with limited mobility or things like strollers may need assistance because of some steep parts.
Once you pay to get in, you can then enter through the ancient gate, the Porta Santa Maria. From there, you can easily explore the town, enjoy a meal at a restaurant, and shop in various little souvenir shops. The church of San Donato is also next to the gate in the town's main square, Piazza Colesanti. The town's museum, Museo Geologico delle Frane, can be very appealing to history buffs, as well. If you want to see some remnants of the town's humble beginnings, you can visit the Etruscan grottoes, which are caves carved into the rock by ancient civilizations.
Steves suggests, "To enrich your experience of this rustic place, be an extrovert." The town also hosts several social events throughout the year, including traditional food and art festivals and a living nativity scene during the holidays. Even though it costs money to enter, it's not terribly expensive to spend the day there, depending on what you do. If you're planning a trip, these are the best tips to explore Italy on a tight budget.