Taiwan's Original Capital Is A Charming City Of Historic Sites, Museums, And Enchanting Alleys

Taiwan is an up-and-coming destination full of natural beauty and fascinating culture. Outside of Taipei, Taiwan's chic and laid-back capital, many flock to the island for its spectacular hot springs and the underrated city of Taichung for its proximity to the outdoors. Another reason to visit Taiwan is to walk and eat your way through Tainan, Taiwan's former capital in the south.

Once called Fu-Cheng, Tainan was Taiwan's capital from 1624 to 1887. The Dutch ruled the island in the 17th century until Zheng Chenggong, a loyalist of the Ming dynasty, defeated and banished them in 1661. Zheng established his government in Tainan, the first official Chinese presence in Taiwan. In 1683, the Zheng kingdom succumbed to the Qing invasion. Taiwan was under Qing governance until it ceded the island to Japan after losing the First Sino-Japanese War in 1895. Taiwan remained a Japanese colony until the end of World War II, when the Japanese surrendered and the island was returned to the Chinese government's control. Chiang Kai-shek of the Kuomintang was the leader of China at the time and ruled Taiwan with an iron fist. Chiang and his party eventually fled to Taiwan after losing the Chinese Civil War to the Communist Party of China in 1949.  

Though no longer Taiwan's capital, the 400-year-old city of Tainan is full of old-world charm that reflects Taiwan's multicultural and complex history of war and colonization. Easily accessible from Taipei or Taichung by the Taiwan High-Speed Rail (THSR) or Taiwan Railway, Tainan is worth adding to your itinerary during your tour around Taiwan.

Tainan's Fort Zeelandia, also known as Anping Old Fort, was Taiwan's first fortress built by the Dutch. The original structures in the inner court were destroyed, and all that remained from the 17th century was the original 230-foot outer wall constructed with red bricks, glutinous rice, sugar, and oyster shells. A statue of Zheng is situated in the courtyard, standing proudly as the national hero who banished the occupying Europeans. Fort Provintia, renamed Chikan Tower, was another Dutch fortress. All that was left of the original fort was its entrance wall. Several temples were built on top of the ruins, including one of Wenchang, the God of Literature. Many Taiwanese students pray at the temple for good grades during exam times.

The Grand Mazu Temple, also in Tainan, was the first temple in Taiwan. It honors Mazu, the Goddess of the Sea and arguably the most beloved deity on the island. This 340-year-old temple is not only elaborately colorful but also a portal into Taiwan's intriguing religious practices.

Hayashi Department Store, located in the center of the city, is an outstanding example of a Japanese Colonial building beautifully restored to its original glory. It's a five-story building with an old-timey elevator and an analog floor indicator. It's full of stalls selling Taiwanese-made products, plus one of the few Shinto temples left in Taiwan on the top floor.

The former Tainan City Police Department is a Colonial Art Deco building constructed in 1931. Now housing part of the Tainan City Art Museum, you can wander the grand terrazzo staircase to access the city's collection of Taiwanese and international artworks. A couple of blocks away is the second building of the art museum, an impressive pentagonal white structure with a fractal glass roof that offers rotating exhibitions.

Nearby, you'll find Snail Alley, a narrow back street filled with eccentric snail ornaments — some visible and others hidden. The walls are often covered in whimsical murals next to tiny cafes and bars. Guohua Street is another vibrant street dotted with cheap and delicious local eateries where you can sample Tainan favorites, such as beef soup.

Shennong Street is a meticulously preserved pedestrian walkway lined with 100-year-old homes turned into hip bars and vintage shops on the ground floors. The area is lit by lanterns at night and known for its romantic and nostalgic vibe — a selfie framed by lanterns and iron-wrought windows is worth a spot on your Instagram grid. Nearby is Shuixian Gong Market, a traditional market selling produce and meats where you can find a little sushi counter serving fresh seafood. From there, climb up a nondescript staircase to reach Find Gin Bar, an adorably tiny bar with the best gin selection in Taiwan and a talented mixologist who will make your juniper dreams come true. Continue your Taiwanese adventures and head south to the underrated island of Xiaoliuqiu, where you can chill on beaches and visit with sea turtles.