Rick Steves Says A Fairytale Spot In Czechia Offers The Quaint Small-Town Europe People Dream To See

As Czech muses go, only Prague exceeds the town of Český Krumlov in South Bohemia. Well before the 13,000-strong town wrapped by the Vltava River became the setting of numerous films, it appeared in the landscapes of famed Expressionist artist Egon Schiele — now on display at in a special exhibition at Neue Galerie in New York City. In fact, it's now the country's second most popular destination after Prague. Among the fans is travel icon, Rick Steves, who considers Krumlov another of his favorite day trips from Prague, writing, "With its simple beauty and wonderfully medieval feel, Český Krumlov is the quaint, small-town Europe that many people dream of experiencing."

UNSECO recognizes this, too, inscribing the town in 1992 for its outstanding and intact architectural heritage that spans the Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque eras. Chief among these is the castle carved into the sheer rock cliff overlooking the old town. The seat of the Rosenberg family, which ruled the town for 300 years, the Český Krumlov Castle appears pulled from the pages of a fairytale, with a high, round tower and sumptuous chambers fit for royalty. It also has a museum, tower, and Baroque theater — making it competition for the awe-inspiring Prague Castle. For many, though, the highlight remains the moat, where brown bears have roamed since 1707. This may change in 2030, however, as the Czech National Heritage Institute plans to end this practice at all Czech castles then. 

Established around 1250 below the castle ramparts, the old town curves along the sharp river bend before narrowing on one side like a teardrop. Inside, cobbled lanes radiate from the town square to its major sites. Indeed, the square itself counts as one of these, thanks to its ring of Renaissance and Baroque homes, including the Town Hall and plague column and fountain. 

Head east from the square and reach Krumlav's number two landmark, St. Vitus Church, built in the early 1400s and notable for its high vaulted ceiling. More Christian art can be found at the Monastery Museum inside a set of three monasteries from the mid-14th century on the castle side of the river. Two blocks west of the town square is the Egon Schiele Art Centrum, paying tribute to the artist's stay there. In warm weather, Schiele's actual riverside house and studio, Egon Schiele Atelier, is open to visitors. 

A Rick Steves' favorite, the Fairytale house and puppet museum presents more than 400 puppets and marionettes, as well as a theater for visitors to bring the tales to life. Other worthwhile stops in Český Krumlov include the Moldavite Museum, highlighting the semi-precious gemstone forged in a massive collision of meteorite 15 million years ago. There is also Museum Fotoateliér Seidel, telling the story of the early days of photography in an Art Nouveau villa. Last, visit Český Krumlov Historic Brewery, pouring proof of why Rick Steves believes the Czech Republic has the best beer in Europe.