You Can Star Gaze From A Secluded Desert Hot Springs On The Loneliest Road In America
When it comes to taking off on the great American road trip, there are so many possibilities to choose from. After all, the United States is a massive country made up of stunning, diverse landscapes. This is all crisscrossed by a spider web of interstates, two-lane highways, and country roads, making it the perfect place to explore by car.
Perhaps no other state is more suited for automobile-based journeys than Nevada. Home to mountains, desert, and impossibly wide-open spaces, this large Southwestern state seduces road-trippers from around the country and beyond. There is just something about Nevada's vast, eerie, otherworldly landscape that makes it an irresistible destination for anyone keen to get behind the wheel and see what's out there.
All of the history, wonder, and strangeness that makes Nevada such a great driving state can be found on Highway 50. Dubbed the "America's Loneliest Road," this iconic drive heads through the state's heart, from the border with California to the Utah state line. Following the old route of the Pony Express, Highway 50 passes through rugged mountains, dusty old mining towns, and plenty of open country that — once the sun sets — sits under a shimmering night sky entirely unmarred by light pollution. This is especially true at Spencer Hot Springs, a natural spring far out in the desert where the heavens come alive at night.
Let it all go in a steaming high desert oasis
The main route begins in Nevada's charming capital, Carson City, just a few miles from a gorgeous state park on the shores of Lake Tahoe. Highway 50 then heads east through arid scrubland for 173 miles before climbing into the mountain town of Austin, famous for its historic churches, turquoise jewelry, and the nearby Hickison Petroglyph site.
Spencer Hot Springs is just 30 minutes from Austin. Situated among the sagebrush in the Big Smoky Valley, this idyllic natural spring affords spectacular views of Humboldt-Toiyabe National Forest, sweeping desert landscape, and local wildlife that passes through, which includes pronghorn along with a herd of wild burros. Depending on the time of year and water flow, the hot springs are home to three to four pools which vary in temperature. Two of these are in metal cattle troughs known as cowboy tubs. Camping is also allowed. Just make sure to do so at least 100 yards away from the springs. This is not just etiquette — it's the law. It also to gives the local animals a chance to drink from the oasis.
This land is run by the Nevada Bureau of Land Management, so there is no admission fee and the springs are open 365 days a year. It's a primitive site, which means there are no restroom facilities or — other than a couple of benches and decks — any infrastructure. The dirt road leading to the springs can also be a bit rough in spots, so take care when driving. However, this lack of development just adds to Spencer Hot Springs' charm. This is especially true once the sun goes down, when — those determined enough to make the drive to this out-of-the-way site — can soak in contentment underneath an endless blanket of shining stars.
The open road and a billion shining stars
Highway 50 continues on through the historic mining town of Eureka — which bills itself as "The Friendliest Town on the Loneliest Road — before carrying on to the surprisingly arty Ely. Ely's most famous attraction is probably the Northern Nevada Railway Museum. This National Historic Landmark is made up of 70 buildings with over 30 miles of track. Aside from exhibits on local railroad history, visitors can ride on several different vintage trains, from old-school coal locomotives to the diesel engines we still see in operation today.
The area around Ely is a natural playground worth exploring in its own right. Cave Lake State Park offers good hiking and camping, while Great Basin National Park acts as a kind of exclamation point to this one-of-kind road trip. Surrounding the 13,063-foot rise of Wheeler Peak, Great Basin is one of the most lightless places in the lower 48. Designated an "International Dark Place" by the International Dark Sky Association, it's a premier spot to take the unadulterated tapestry of the night sky, drawing stargazers and amateur astronomers from around the country and beyond.
If it's more road trips through isolated, stark country that you're after, check out this arresting route in Nebraska.