The Oldest Boulangerie In Bordeaux, France, Is A Hidden Piece Of History With Delicious Tradition
Buying bread from a local boulangerie is one of the highlights of any French vacation. There's nothing quite like the crunch of the crust as you break a freshly baked baguette or the flake of a featherweight pastry as you bite into a warm croissant. It is a sensory, indulgent, almost sensual experience, and it is one of the best ways to immerse yourself in the culinary culture of your destination. While visiting a French bakery or restaurant, don't forget the unspoken rules for dining like a local in France.
French bread and pastries are world-famous, and chances are you'll find a great boulangerie wherever you go in France. However, not all French bakeries are created equal, and some are worth making a little extra effort to seek out. Au Pétrin Moissagais, in Bordeaux is one of these.
Tucked away in Bordeaux's Chartrons neighborhood a few blocks from the Garonne River, Au Pétrin Moissagais is known as the city's oldest bakery. This iconic institution has been providing delicious loaves, baguettes, and pastries to the city's inhabitants for over 250 years, and some of their recipes haven't changed since the 18th century.
Au Pétrin Moissagais features stone walls, a wooden oven, and traditional recipes
Dating back to the 1760s, Au Pétrin Moissagais revels in its centuries-old tradition. You can feel the history as soon as you walk in, from the bare stone walls creating an almost cave-like ambiance to the raw heat pouring out of the rustic wooden oven at the back of the shop. The staff uses traditional methods to make the vast majority of the bread and pastries, including the signature creation, the pain Gascon. It is still baked using the original recipe from the small town of Moissa. In the 18th century, there were no preservatives and fewer options for storage, so bread was made to stay fresher for longer, with a thicker crust designed to keep moisture in.
The rest of the mouthwatering morsels on display at Au Pétrin Moissagais are well worth tasting, too. From pain au chocolat and cream-filled pastries to brioche and walnut bread, the business excels at every type of bread and patisserie imaginable. With a small coffee machine by the counter, it is the perfect spot for a quick breakfast, while the cheese-covered tartines loaded with smoked ham make a wonderfully filling option for lunch on the go. The owners only speak a little English, so you should check out the five phrases Rick Steves says tourists must know before a trip to France.
Historic charm and architecture in Bordeaux
This charming boulangerie is far from the only reason to visit Bordeaux. As an underrated treasure in the southwest of France, Bordeaux is rightly famous for its incredible vineyards, but the city itself is also a delight and rewards curious travelers who are willing to explore. However, you may want to take a train into the city, as the Bordeaux-Mérignac airport is one that you should avoid at all costs.
Wander around the old city, starting from the gorgeous Pey Berland belltower. Here, it is worth taking a look at the magnificent Saint-André Cathedral, a masterpiece of Romanesque, Gothic, and Renaissance architecture. A short walk away, the Marché des Capucins is Bordeaux's lively daily market, a vibrant, bustling hub with fresh fruit, cheese, cured meats, and other delicacies. Don't miss out on strolling down the Rue Sainte-Catherine, the longest pedestrian street in France and the best shopping street in the city. You should also seek out the fascinating Grosse Cloche, a bell weighing in at nearly 8.5 tons that hangs above a former prison.
Round out your trip to Bordeaux by heading to the Place de la Bourse. This stunning square on the river is even more eye-catching after dark when the neoclassical facade is lit up and reflected in the Miroir d'Eau, the reflecting pool set directly in front. It is one of the most recognizable sights in the city and a perfect encapsulation of the exquisite beauty of one of France's wine capitals.