Window Shop Until You Drop At A Samantha Brown-Approved Quirky District On Lake Geneva

Home to the European headquarters of the United Nations, the Red Cross, the World Trade Organization, and the World Health Organization, Geneva is known for tackling serious global issues. However, if you travel 10 minutes outside the city center to the artsy neighborhood of Carouge, you'll feel like you're in a different, less-intense city. Geneva is at the southernmost tip of beautiful Lake Geneva, which at 225 square miles covers the same area as Chicago. Cross the Arve River to Carouge and transport yourself to what some liken to Greenwich Village because of its bohemian nature or Little Italy for its Italian heritage (Switzerland has an underrated Little Italy on Lake Lugano, too).

Much of Geneva's staid architecture reflects its stature as a center for diplomacy and business, but there are no bland skyscrapers in Carouge. Instead, you'll find two-story homes painted a mix of colors and enhanced with terraces and gardens. There's a Mediterranean feel, especially in the oldest section, Vieux Carouge. People in Carouge historically had more freedoms than in neighboring areas, and it was a center for artisans and tradespeople. Today that quirky, independent spirit is alive in streets packed with artists' studios, crafts and antiques shops, trendy night spots, and cafes on leafy squares. If nearby Germany is on your travel list, don't miss this quirky Munich experience recommended by Rick Steves.

The name Carouge — derived from "carrefour," meaning crossroads — is apt. Its location on a river by a bridge made it an ideal trading post. The Rue Ancienne ("old street") is first mentioned during Roman rule in 120 BC, but the population didn't surpass hamlet status until the 18^th century. Passed between France and Italy before becoming part of Geneva in 1815, Carouge had mills, tanneries, and pottery factories. 

Beyond its industries, Carouge was known as the easygoing Italian town where people could practice their own religions, drink alcohol, and dance. This opposed it to Geneva, which was strident during the Reformation. Geneva was an epicenter of the Protestant Reformation — a place where John Calvin, John Knox, and others found safe refuge from Catholic authoritarianism, trained missionaries, and shaped what would become known as Puritanism. Carouge was referred to as an open city for allowing religious freedom and lacking fortification. 

Open and international back before mass transportation, Carouge was primarily French in 1786 when about a quarter of residents were from Savoy and the Piedmont, less than 10% were German, and even less were from Geneva. Today, Carouge remains cosmopolitan with 54% of its 22,311 inhabitants born in Switzerland and 46% elsewhere (City Population).

Carouge has five sections, with the central one being the most lively. Known for the Instagram-famous colorful umbrellas suspended overhead, Rue St. Joseph is the main shopping street. 200 years ago, Carouge was full of craftspeople. This tradition is carried on by skilled artisans who today create one-of-a-kind jewelry pieces, statement hats, custom handbags, and clothing that you can't find anywhere else. You can also buy original art, antiques, unique stationery, books, vintage clothing, and so much more. Keep an eye out for two of Samantha Brown's favorite shops, a clockmaker, Créations Kazès Genève, and the inventive chocolatier Philippe Pascoët,. 

Try to visit Carouge on a Wednesday or Saturday morning to catch the food market in the Place du Marché. Or, you could learn about this region's intriguing history at the Carouge Museum. For more active exploration, stroll along the riverfront or rent a free bike to cover more ground. 

Carouge is also a nightlife destination, with spots concentrated around Rue Vartier and Place du Marche. After exploring during the day and lingering at a restaurant, stay to hear a set at a jazz bar, go bar hopping, or dance the night away at the club Chat Noir. If you're headed to the UK next, check out a similarly trendy London neighborhood with great shopping.